Spokeshave help Stanley 151
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- This topic has 4 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 5 months ago by Ed.
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29 October 2018 at 12:32 pm #552882
Ok, everyone, I need a bit of help. I am used to using wooden bevel up spokeshaves and have made the one Paul shows on here. I have them working well and good. But, this 151 is giving me a bit of trouble. I have flattened the sole and sharpened the blade. It will shave hair. Now, it will cut along the fine, but I was working on the shaker stool from the video library this weekend and trying to shape the ends of the crossbar as Paul shows. I couldn’t get the blade the shave the end grain at all. It just slid over it and wouldn’t bite at all.
The only thing I can think of it to increase the bevel angle. I haven’t measured it, but it looks a bit high. Does this sound right, or anyone have any other suggestions?29 October 2018 at 4:55 pm #552884The 151 is a bevel down plane. Almost any bevel angle will work as long as it is more than about 30°.
All the wood “sees” is the bed angle of the plane, just as it does with the standard bailey.What might work is putting a shim of sheet metal behind the cutter to close the mouth up a bit. I used a piece of brass sheetstock and epoxied it in place, but the epoxyreally isn’t necessary.
You can first try angling the tool to the direction of cutting and see if that helps.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 5 months ago by Larry Geib.
30 October 2018 at 2:34 am #552897I’ll take a look tomorrow. I was just thinking sith the bevel angle that the blade was actually riding on the bevel and not making good contact. But, I do like the idea of closing the mouth up like your mentioned. Thanks.
If the shave just skips over the wood without biting, it doesn’t seem that the size of the mouth would be the main issue. If the shave couldn’t cut either face grain or end grain, then perhaps the issue would be too steep a bevel, but you said it will cut fine on face grain, so probably not bevel angle.
I’m inclined to suspect sharpness. Try a skewed, slicing cut, like Larry suggested. That always seems to help.
Is the end grain in a hollow that a flat shave just can’t get into and it really has nothing to do with end grain?
If you resharpen, try making the bevel angle smaller, just in case it is a clearance issue.
Yeah, I just looked at a photo of the Shaker stool. The “cross bar” you mention does have hollow / concave ends. Especially if you emphasized the degree of that curve, the shave may have trouble getting into the curve because the sole is flat. Is the sole of the 151 wider than your wooden shaves?
The workaround for this is just extending the blade quite a bit. The front and rear of the sole will ride the curve and the blade will reach down below to cut.
Try the shave on end grain of a straight cut and a normal set. Any difference?
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