Spoon, Fork and Bowl/Plate
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- This topic has 4 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 9 years ago by Matt McGrane.
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13 March 2015 at 12:41 am #125564
I recently bought the Paul Sellers book “Working Wood 1 & 2” and thought I’d try a little shaping like he suggests in the beginning of the book. A couple months ago I got some plum (or pear?) wood branches, so I tried my luck at a spoon and then made a matching fork. These came out pretty nice, though the spoon is definitely thicker at the business end than I’d like it to be.
The bowl/plate is from some thick pine (shipping crate material). Not sure I like it that much – when I was scraping it, the soft wood was removed much more than the hard wood and it left a wavy surface. I think I’ll keep this one in the shop to hold screws, nails, etc.
All are currently absorbing some mineral oil as the finish.
To do the spoon I had to (finally!) make a curved scraper. That came out nice and worked well. I had made a holder for it to use it like a “chair devil”.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.13 March 2015 at 2:13 am #125569Hi Matt. They do look good, someone MIT think you know what you are doing.
All kidding aside they are very good.
FrankjI’m not sure what my problem is, but I’ve had more trouble learning how to use a spokeshave than any other tool we’ve used in our projects. I think my blade angle is correct (according to Paul’s sharpening video), but it seems that mine (an old Stanley 151) just doesn’t glide and cut easily like Paul’s. Maybe my setting? Anyway, it seemed a discussion on spoon & fork making was the right time to bring it up. Also, VERY nice job, Matt!
18 March 2015 at 1:14 am #125648@gary – thanks Gary. You know, I’ve had some difficulty getting my spokeshave to work properly, too. I have an old Marples with flat bottom, probably similar to a #151. I recently made the blade sharpening jig that Paul did a video about (https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/2014/07/spokeshave-sharpening-holder-2/). I think that helped a little, but I really should sharpen more often. Paul uses the technique where he exposes the blade a little more on one side than the other. I’ve tried that, but I don’t have good enough control of what part of the blade is doing the cutting.
Oh well, practice, practice, practice …
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