Tagged: 151 spokeshave.
21 January 2018 at 10:38 pm #447193Richard GuggemosParticipant
Recently I proccured the above spokeshave new – it was much cheaper than used and seems to work fine. The threaded adjusters are so nice to use.
As some of you will know, these are now made in Mexico.
The attached picture shows part of the pouch it came in.
Curiously, it recommends a different bevel angle for English and Spanish speakers. Can anyone shed any light why this might be? With as long as Stanley has made this model they surely know all the ins and outs of its usage.
- This topic was modified 1 year, 2 months ago by Richard Guggemos.
28 August 2018 at 4:33 pm #550686
After more staring at it and handling the parts a lot during all this photography, I find the blade has flared edges that are trapping it inside of the arced part of the mouth. Probably just slop from the cutting of the blade, which I guess should not be a surprise with a $18 tool. Also I can see that Harry’s has quite a bit of space on either side of the blade, so it doesn’t need to fit so tightly on the edges. Takes a while to figure that out though, if you’ve never seen or used the tool before. I’m going to grind the blade edges and see if it fits.
.28 August 2018 at 4:51 pm #550687
Here’s a better picture of the sole of my 151 – exactly the same plane Brian has. If that blade won’t lay down flat against the seat it’s defective and I would return it. If you want to fix it, try reducing the width of the blade. The blade isn’t that hard, you can easily file it down if you want to.
Sorry Brian, I think we were typing at the same time. You can certainly grind the blade too and that will work. There is nothing sacred or sophisticated about a spokeshave. It’s a cutting edge with a hunk of scrap iron around it that helps you hold on. Once you get it seated right, you won’t believe how much fun those things are.
28 August 2018 at 8:38 pm #550696Doug FinchMember
- This reply was modified 7 months, 3 weeks ago by harry wheeler.
I’m just going to take a stab at this and say that the package instructions represent both the angle in degrees (25) and the slope in % (30). I don’t believe this has anything to do with differences between people, but possibly differences between professions. While a 25 degree angle is sufficient for most people, and engineer or someone of that sort may want to know the actual slope, in percentage, of what the cutting edge should be. I could be wrong.28 August 2018 at 9:41 pm #550702Sven-Olof JanssonParticipant
After the manufacturer opened up the mouth of the spokeshave on the attached photo, it has been very nice to use, though not as easy to adjust as the ones with two screws.
London, UK; Cambridge, MA28 August 2018 at 10:00 pm #550705
I don’t know what Stanley is talking about when they say “hone at 30%”, but if that were a slope, it would correspond to an angle of about 17 degrees which makes no sense at all. They must be talking about something else or maybe they meant degrees, not percent?
Harry28 August 2018 at 10:58 pm #550706
It has to be a typo for 30 degrees.
On mine, I guess since the casting on these is just that, a casting, it follows that it won’t always come out of the mold perfectly. On your plane are the side corners of the mouth in contact at all with the blade for registration purposes, or just free floating. If it doesn’t need to be machined perfectly to the sides then I should be ok grinding off the edges of the blade.
.29 August 2018 at 12:16 am #550708Larry GeibParticipant
I’d file the casting corners instead of the cutter.
For one thing, cast iron is a lot easier to file than tool steel.
Also, I interchange cutters sometime when I am in mid project so I don’t have downtime. You won’t have to grind other cutters.
The stock Veritas, Record, Kunz, Hock, and Stanley blades are all pretty much interchangeable out of the box.29 August 2018 at 12:34 am #550709
Mine is a little loose and it really needs to be a loose fit. When you use one of these things, most of us will set the blade to be a little more aggressive on one side than the other just so we can easily go from thick shavings to thin ones by selecting which side of the spokeshave we’re using and to do that the blade has to be able to skew a little. It can’t be a machine fit and be able to do that. You can take as much as you need off the blade to allow it to seat completely plus another 0.015″ or so and be just fine. Spokeshaves are pretty crude devices and not really sensitive to much of anything. I only bought the one I have because I could get the entire spokeshave cheaper than I could buy just the iron and at the time, the iron was what I really wanted but when the thing worked pretty good, I decided to use it. Good luck with yours. A little tuning should get you in good shape.
Harry29 August 2018 at 1:31 am #550711EdParticipant
Veritas sells blades that will fit in Stanley, but they differ from the blades they use in their own shaves. There is a difference in the thumbwheel slot. So, make sure you order the proper blade if you need a replacement.
I’d file the casting if this were my shave unless there is something hugely wrong with the blade. At the very least, get a straightedge in there and confirm you have a decent, flat bedding of the blade.29 August 2018 at 2:28 am #550716
Since the blade appears to have flared edges, I say file the blade and get it working. That’s going to be easier than trying to file the casting where you would need to file. I went through something similar with a Knuz cabinet scraper recently and filing that painted cast iron is a little like trying to file cornbread. If you ever need to install a replacement cutter and the new one doesn’t fit, you can rethink the whole situation at that point.
Harry1 September 2018 at 2:13 am #550809
An update (on the thread I seem to have hijacked, sorry Richard, and also you probably know that below the equator the Coriolis effect is at a different angle).
Ok so, I abraded off the arises on the blade, reducing it by about 1/10 of an inch, all told. Then it still didn’t fit, due to a gradual but persistent curve extending out a few millimeters.
So then I took out all the screws and filed away at the body, thereby transferring a lot of paint onto my file (which I then cleaned off, most of it, with mineral oil). This filing removed the curve, which seems to have been primarily due to paint. The bed that the blade sits on is still not machine-flat, it is however square now, just has a lot of craters (it is cast iron). I will probably ignore the craters.
I then took a few shavings off my trusty sacrificial 2×4, successfully, despite that I’ve not yet sharpened the blade. (for more, stay tuned for the next episode of ‘brian #8 using a spokeshave #151)
.2 September 2018 at 5:15 am #550818Derek LongParticipant
I was going to ask if the bed was painted. Most are, which is stupid. File it off so the cutter sits tight on bare metal bedding.
Denver, Colorado2 September 2018 at 5:50 am #550820
So true Derek, but you should have said that BEFORE I filed it (ye might have, I do not have an iphone so I miss some things).
Anyways, no harm done, I managed to clean the paint off my file with some mineral oil. stuff is magic. I would post pictures,but I’m tired from reorganizing the garage (a whole nother story). It will be a long weekend and I have much to do during those hours, in the garage.
Also, still hijacking yer thread Richard, feel free to kick me out at any time, if any of this offends.
Also, the promised update. After shaving both the blade and the bed, the spokeshave works. I used it to do some carving on my ‘poor man’s Router’. The Router is still not pretty but it works, and I have shelves to make so I’ll get back to it later.
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