7 September 2018 at 3:16 pm #550993EdParticipant
Know what else you could use? A plastic cutting board. I’m spacing out on what the stuff is called. HDPE? That’s what is used for many plastic cutting boards. Take a ruler to the hardware store or yard sale, test for a flat one (bet most are good enough), and there you go.
My only concern with acrylic and the HDPE is the fastener. I think a self-tapping screw or wood screw will be fine in the HDPE if you drill a pilot hole first.7 September 2018 at 4:01 pm #550994Mark68Participant
Yes, I was wondering and had a bit of concern with screwing into the acrylic. Plus as Harry said, it’s going to be the more expensive option. But then, this is reasonably priced:
I got it down to £7.31 for 270mm x 120mm x 12mm with rounded (2mm) corners.
15mm thick is £8.51
EDIT: And £13 for delivery. That’s incredible.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."7 September 2018 at 4:14 pm #550995harry wheelerParticipant
You can get a 12 x 12 x 1/2″ piece of high density polyethylene (HDPE) on Amazon for about $14 if you want to go that way. No matter what you use, it doesn’t have to be attached with a wood screw or self threading screw. You can drill and countersink the bottom of the table (don’t know what else to call it) and as long as the countersink is deep enough to keep the head below the surface, you can run flat head machine screws up from the bottom with a washer and nut on top. HDPE or acrylic are both pretty easy to work with though, and putting a self tapping screw in it should work fine.
Harry7 September 2018 at 4:56 pm #550996Sven-Olof JanssonParticipant
Phenolic plywood (form plywood) is very flat and has low friction. If you have a timber merchant nearby, there’s a fair chance you can have a scrap piece, and probably also cut, for free. As the centre of the piece will be screwed to the base of the router with perhaps 10 cm (4″) protruding on each side, I believe 9 mm thickness would have sufficient stability and the 12 mm definitely so. The 9 mm one puts a limit to the heights of the heads of the machine screws.
From the look of it, Mr. P. Sellers’ shooting board is made from phenolic plywood, and it is overall good for making jigs and fixtures.
London, UK; Boston, MA7 September 2018 at 5:13 pm #550997Mark68Participant
So many terms for wood and wood-like materials – I had no idea 🙂
Olaf, you say 4″ either side of the router, but Paul mentioned 1″. Personally, I was looking at 1 1/2″ either side.
I’m off to research phenolic plywood
Thank you Sven
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."7 September 2018 at 6:14 pm #550999Sven-Olof JanssonParticipant
Couldn’t agree more, but encouraging the use of latin names probably takes it a tad too far.
The extending parts can of course be shorter, all depending on the tasks ahead. I mainly wanted to point out the stiffness of phenolic plywood. Sorry for any confusion.
There is, though, one situation where long protrusions are welcome: the long through tenons of workbenches and some table frames. When routing them it’s often convenient to have a long support that allows a firm rest while using arcing movements of the plane over the tenon.
An alternative approach can be to let the tenon start as two dados. The tail bit left “fat” then serves as a second support for the router, and is sawn off when one is done, leaving the tenon. There should be some recent videos showing this technique.
London, UK; Boston, MA7 September 2018 at 7:11 pm #551000EdParticipant
Yet another approach is to remove the bulk with a chisel, use a router plane to flatten from the shoulder to as far out as you can reach without rocking the router, and then do the very end with your #4 bench plane. You can go back and forth between the router and bench plane. As long as the router is taking care of the area near the shoulder, the bench plane won’t get hung up from the closed portion of its mouth. You re
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