- 1 April 2019 at 8:50 pm #555727Dave RingParticipant
Rather than oak, I think that you should follow Stanley’s example and use cocobolo (quartersawn, of course). If this is a US made Stanley plane (or an older English made one) you should use half inch thick stock rather than 12mm.
Dave1 April 2019 at 9:29 pm #555728
Thanks all for the advice, but, for better or worse, I ordered the wood this morning.
A bit pricey but at least now I’ll be able to go back to working on the bench.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."2 April 2019 at 2:00 am #555729Keith WaltonParticipant
Hey whatever gets you back to working. I didn’t want to be pessimistic but I wondered what if the wood cups or distorts during shipping? You may lose some thickness truing it and in the same position anyway, where your planing skill will be relied upon to make a flat base. Hopefully it’s all fine when it acclimated to your shop and you can get to work2 April 2019 at 4:01 am #555731Andrew SinclairParticipant
@davering wrote: “Rather than oak, I think that you should follow Stanley’s example and use cocobolo (quartersawn, of course). If this is a US made Stanley plane (or an older English made one) you should use half inch thick stock rather than 12mm.”
Lol, that’s gold!! I’m glad someone noticed it was April fool’s day 🙂11 April 2019 at 2:01 am #555922
I’m new to this forum and new to hand tool woodworking. I was wondering what a fair price to pay for a no 71, that needs some restoration, on a site like eBay? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks11 April 2019 at 8:18 am #555924
Hi Dave, welcome to the site.
Not sure what a Stanley 71 that needs restoration might cost, but I paid just over £90 for mine, but it was in very good condition with no restoration work needed (other than sharpening the cutting blade).
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."13 April 2019 at 2:38 pm #555939
Thank you for the response. It seems that the ones I am seeing need different levels of restoration but are selling for around 70 u.s dollars and up. Didn’t know if that was a fair price since I’m brand new to using and buying hand tools.13 April 2019 at 2:52 pm #555940
I know what you mean Dave. I am also very new to all of this.
The folk on these boards though are very helpful and I wouldn’t know where I would be without them.
In other news, the wood I ordered has just turned up and it is perfect! It was a bit expensive but after months of searching and not finding the right piece, it has to be worth it.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."14 April 2019 at 12:29 am #555944Larry GeibParticipant
My only concern with acrylic and the HDPE is the fastener. I think a self-tapping screw or wood screw will be fine in the HDPE if you drill a pilot hole first.
Most of the sheet plastics (acrylic, polycarbonate, Acetal,PVC, Butyls, HDPE) do better if you drill and tap them. Acrylic especially is sensitive to any attempt to use wood screws. You will most likely crack it. HDPE is pronanly the most forgiving. You might get away with a woodscrew in that, but tapping for a machine screw is still better.14 April 2019 at 5:15 pm #555947Sven-Olof JanssonParticipant
As a high-quality new router plane, ready to use from the box, is ≈$140 – $160, seventy dollars for one in need of restoration seems a bit rich; though less so than some >$100 items that I’ve seen on e-bay.
Accepting the higher prices for “top-notch” new tools has for me been associated with a blessing in disguise: the tool is never the reason behind an unsatisfactory result. The culprit is invariably me, something that can’t be taken for granted with used tools. Though of course less likely, there is the possibility that the tool is the guilty part, and with no one to ask that can take a long time to figure out. WWMC opened my eyes to that not all hand tools are sold ready-to-use.
London, UK; Boston, MA14 April 2019 at 11:10 pm #555948
Thanks for the reply Sven, honestly I hadn’t even thought about just buying a new one. I can absolutely see what you’re saying about knowing it’s me and not the tool. I think that is the route I will go.
As an aside, I see you are or have lived in Massachusetts. I live in Gloucester myself. Where do or did you buy your hardwoods? The only place that I really know of is highland hardwoods in southern New Hampshire15 April 2019 at 2:14 am #555949Larry GeibParticipant
As an aside, I see you are or have lived in Massachusetts. I live in Gloucester myself. Where do or did you buy your hardwoods? The only place that I really know of is highland hardwoods in southern New Hampshire
Start here: https://emgw.org/Links15 April 2019 at 11:32 am #555952
Thank you Larry, very helpful. When I was using Google it was mostly lumber yards or on line dealers. I appreciate all the help15 April 2019 at 3:04 pm #555981Sven-Olof JanssonParticipant
Thankfully Larry answered your question, because where we live the opportunities of getting access to a cyclotrone vastly exceed those of finding a workshop (by which I want to say that I find Cambridge MA just fabulous); and without a workshop there hasn’t been need to find a supplier of wood.
London, UK; Boston, MA16 April 2019 at 4:43 pm #556036
Not sure what’s happened. I followed the instructions exactly, but when I tried the Stanley 71 on its new 12mm thick base, with the cutting iron fully descended it still barely brushes the tenon cheek I need to work on.
Either the 12mm base is too thick or the cutting iron is too short. I’ve double checked everything and it’s all according to plan. But there is no way will be able to use it on the leg tenon cheeks after all.
Either I am going to have to buy an acrylic piece that is thinner than 12mm or perhaps I can buy a longer cutting iron for the 71 – if they make them.
The only thing I can think is wrong is I’ve used a Stanley 71 whereas Paul used the blue Record hand router. Gutted.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
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