Sticking board for mouldings
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10 April 2015 at 5:04 am #126400
I’ve been working at making mouldings for picture frames completely by hand. One of the fixtures that I found I required is a sticking board. This is my take on it. It’s 5 feet long and 12 inches wide so it will fit over the vise. It’s 3/4 inch Baltic birch with an additional strip along the front for better registration on the planes fence. The fence and stops are 1/4 inch plywood. I routed 2 T slots for the fence adjustment. As you can see from the second photo, I added a second stop at the far end so i could work both ways when using the beading tool.
(You can also see that my bench gets very messy as the project unfolds. 🙂 )I’ve been trying out some of the oriental hollow and round planes that Lee Valley sells. Because of the shape, there are some restrictions on what one can do with them, however I won’t be getting the western style ones until I can make them myself due to the cost.
I’ve also included a picture of the tools I’ve been using. The Veritas beading tool was a gift from my son, which replaced a shop made one.
I’ve been learning alot doing this, and it’s fun and relaxing. My router table may be going up for sale.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.10 April 2015 at 8:00 pm #126412Hey Peter, that’s pretty nice. Just this morning I was trying to figure out how to clamp a small board to try out a grooving plane. I ended up using Paul’s “clamp in the vise” trick, but I can see that your sticking board would work perfectly for that. Nothing to get in the way of parts of the plane.
I cheated and looked at the pictures before reading your second paragraph. I noticed the Asian moulding planes and was going to ask about them. I’d be interested in your review once you’ve had more time with them.
Good luck on the picture frames (something else on my to-do list, once I have the tools needed to make moulding profiles).
11 April 2015 at 11:21 pm #126442The sticking board looks good, my board is only 8 inc wide yours looks a lot wider. But most of the time only need 3 to 4 Inc the length looks good,most often the stock needed is about four feet for the smaller tables I build.
As Matt asked how do you like the Chinese planes, I have the 18 Inc jointer and the 18 inc rebate plane they are very good especially the rebate plane it is good for dados, it’s just under 6/8 that makes a tight fit.I have looked at there plow plane, I may buy it if the one I am making fails time will tell.
Frankj12 April 2015 at 1:35 am #126444I makde the board 12 inches wide so it would project beyond my vise. It probably could have been narrower, but I figured better too wide than too narrow.
The Chinese planes are well made and the irons seem to be ok. I had to sharpen them when I got them (as with any plane). They work well in both hardwood and softwood. The only issue I’ve found so far is that the shapes you can do are restricted by the body shape. When I get some time, I’d like to try using the irons out of them to try making western style hollows and rounds. Lee Valley sells replacement irons for them for between $7 and $11 so that would be a cheap source.
12 April 2015 at 11:43 pm #126461Hi Peter
I have bought those irons they are very good as is everything from Lee V, but I find it cheaper to buy 01 steel and make my own. I just bought steel to make blades for my 71
And a plow plane Iam making.I found a old screw arm German made from about 1900,,this is my pattern so far it’s working but I do need to make some adjustments when I get it done I intend to post it with a set of plans if others want to on make one.
As for the planes you have, have you considered shaving them down some?
Frankj13 April 2015 at 3:32 am #126462I haven’t looked at modifying the planes as it’s still early days as far as figuring out how to use them.
I haven’t looked at making the irons myself as I haven’t really got to that point. Good luck whith your plow plane. I will be very interested to hear how it turns out.
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