The Geneva Wall Clock
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2 June 2014 at 6:51 am #57791
I’ve begun on my next project it’s a current order that I’ve been working on the drawings for a couple of weeks now and today my client has approved it so I’m ready to begin. I’m going to be using two timber New Guinean Rosewood and Black Walnut. As you can see in the series of pictures it starts off rough sawn, I first crosscut it to length, plane it, thickness it and then rip it down to over all size but not the actual width.
I have a nice seemless joint and I should begin planing it all over again first thing in th morning. All in all this took about 2.5hrs.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.2 June 2014 at 6:56 am #57801I hope your going to enjoy the journey, I will have to limit the amount of pics as well but you’ll get the jist of it. I’m not a good writer like Paul but I’ll do my best to give you a glimpse in my world of clock making.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.2 June 2014 at 10:46 pm #57814You may wonder why I use rough sawn lumber, it’s not because I’m a sucker for pain but costs. Rough sawn is cheaper to buy, plus the minimum is 1″ (25mm) thick and that’s what you want for most projects. Lumber is never flat so if you buy 3/4″ planed your still going to have to plane it to get it flat so it will end up being than 3/4 which is fine if that is what you want but, wood moves even after you planed as Tom Fidgen say’s wood moves get over it.
There are some measures you can take to limit it’s movement. One is to drop them on the floor that helps to relieve it’s stress lol no chill pills here. Then plane it but not to it’s final thickness let it sit in your shop for a day so it can move then plane it down again to it’s final thickness. What I do to stop it from moving is to place it on a flat surface I have a large granite or marble which luckily enough I got for free. That is perfectly flat, I then place weights usually heavy timber I have lying around on top this limits it’s movement completely. Sometimes I don’t touch that timber for a week mainly because I just haven’t gotten around to it yet and still flat so this method works. I recently discovered other furniture makers employ the same method so when you think you’ve just come up with something new trust me you haven’t someone else has already thought about it long ago. It makes me think how we all think alike.
Anyway today is a new day I just love my mornings and it’s time to take off the clamps and get stuck into it.
Stay tuned.
2 June 2014 at 11:09 pm #57816This going to be special I can feel it.
Can’t wait for your updates. 😉2 June 2014 at 11:09 pm #57817The final dimenions are:
47″ x 14 1/2″ x 6″
1200mm x 370mm x 150mmI have included a pdf of the front view I didn’t take the time in cleaning it up since I know where everything goes but I will end up doing as it is a nice presentation for future clients.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.3 June 2014 at 11:04 am #57825You got that right Mark
Writing this harder than I thought and after a long hard day I’m really not up to it. I will try and keep it short and to the point.
After taking the clamps off I did some planing to make it flat again, when you edge clamp the board has a tendancy to buckle and causes more planing to be done than necessary. In the very last series of pics you will a new method to tackle this ongoing problem. Now I’m sure someone out there has most probably already cae up with this so I won’t tke claim on it but in case no one has call me a genious if it works. As you can see pic 15 shows where I stack my timber with the added weights on top to stop it from moving.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.3 June 2014 at 11:14 am #57836I am now marking it to 1/2″ (12mm) for resawing this is going to be the top half and door, the back is 3/4″ (19mm). The idea is not to make the clock too heavy.
Pic.21 shows me holding a coffee grinder and in it I ground some shavings as you can see the end result in pic.22. You will see my reason for doing this in the next post
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You must be logged in to view attached files.3 June 2014 at 11:22 am #57840Look at that Walnut just how beautifully that has come up, this hand planed only. From rough sawn ugly looking thing to a thing of beauty and it was so easy to plane I wish they all bloody were.
Pic.24 resawn and planed to 1/2″
Now my reason for grinding the shavings to fine dust. Rosewood is an open grained timber and I need to seal it in order for whatever finish I decide to use especially shellac from sinking into the timber. The dust I made is being mixed with 3 part grain filler 1 part mineral turps. I’m using the saw the dust from the same timber hopefully to mask the filler. You can also use stain mixed as well but having tried doesn’t turn out so well.
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