The making of handscrews
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- This topic has 40 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 5 months ago by Salko Safic.
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[quote quote=131769]…they just do not work and I believe it’s because of the blind hole. Why they have one and the metal screws don’t I don’t know
[/quote]I’m having trouble picturing what you mean…I don’t think I’ve seen a set of these with blind holes.
Other things for 2″ stock: Canes. Picture frames. Frames for frame and panel with a contrasting panel wood. Bars for a towel rack. A base for a smallish box (bracket feet or other base). Enough little wedges for 18 million through tenons. 🙂
Sorry to hear about the frustration!
27 October 2015 at 11:50 am #131771I know a man who has 18000 battons been storing them for 10 yrs and still doesn’t know what to do with them.
Blind hole not holes it’s 7/8 deep purpose unknown.
Found pictures with the blind hole. I never noticed before! (I only have metal-rod handscrews and have never held a wooden one).
Does this help?
Making wooden handscrews, Mike Dunbar
27 October 2015 at 12:04 pm #131774Thanks for link Ed but it still doesn’t explain what’s the blind hole for. Mine keeps popping out obviously too big but if I made it a snug fit then it wouldn’t turn. Next week I will just tap 3 holes or 4 and see how it goes.
27 October 2015 at 3:00 pm #131783Salko,
I think the blind hole is to keep one of the screws stationary as a pivot point to “crank” or “spin” the clamp. If they were all threaded they would just unscrew from the jaws. With one stationary you can crank it on the axis of that one set screw and the lower jaw will screw up or down.
EDIT: you can probably “fix” it by plugging the hole, gluing and redrilling a tight fit for that blind hole.
- This reply was modified 8 years, 5 months ago by Derek Long.
- This reply was modified 8 years, 5 months ago by Derek Long.
27 October 2015 at 3:02 pm #131785but what about the issue of it coming and metal screw one’s thread straight through
27 October 2015 at 3:10 pm #131787It would seem to be a problem with the “nipple” end staying in the blind hole and still turning enough. Hmm. You can capture that end, but it sure starts getting complicated.
2 November 2015 at 3:10 am #131941I drew up in autoCAD a blueprint for handscrews which I hope you guys find it useful.
2 November 2015 at 4:14 am #131943Did you just toss that blind hole and go with all through-tapped holes, then?
2 November 2015 at 4:21 am #131944Mate I just completed 16 orders that were overdue so I’m getting to it right now, I promise I’ll let you know by the end of the day how I went but for now I plan on doing what I drew that’s tapped all around and then I’ll do another one with a 7/8″ over sized hole to see the difference. I’ve sent off an email to a friend of mine Bob from the old logan cabinet shoppe to get his thoughts on why they have the 1/2″ no through hole.
Just hang on I’m gettin there.
2 November 2015 at 5:11 am #131945“By the end of the day”
It’s so weird interacting with folks that are a third of a day offset from me. The UK is a third of a day ahead of me, Australia is two-thirds if I have my international dateline right in my head. Your Monday is almost over already Salko, and mine hasn’t even begun.
2 November 2015 at 5:32 am #131946Too true Derek I wish it was 4 in the morning again I just love that time of day. Well having just completed two versions of it I understand the mechanics now. The blind hole gives something for the screw to push the clamp away if it was a through hole or tapped the screw would just screw in without affecting the clamp, now for the other side the through hole must be larger and not tapped so in this instance for the size of the handscrew 7/8″ is the diameter of the hole. For the metric guys I use imperial because my auger bits are imperial use whatever system you like it’s not critical. I have updated the drawings and corrected some errors. Please note the blind hole I have chosen 5/8″ don’t take this as gospel it may need to be smaller.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.2 November 2015 at 6:42 am #131948Disregard everything I said the plans are correct but it just won’t tighten stuffed if I know how it goes together.
Salko,
You may be closer than you think! Look at Bill Houghton’s posting here: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?148605-Self-built-handscrew-what-am-I-doing-wrong
Like I said, I’ve never used a traditional wood handscrew, just the Jorgenson’s with metal screws. Apparently, the old wood ones are used differently. First, the jaws are always close to parallel. Second, according to Mr. Houghton, you *disengage* the screw from the blind hole, use the other screw to get the jaws to the approximate spacing of the thing you want to clamp, and then advance the screw into the blind hole to apply clamping pressure. You may have had this right all along!
This information (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/9830 ) seems contrary to what I just posted, but between the two of them maybe it can be figured out? It seems like what you’ve built should work.
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