The making of handscrews
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- This topic has 40 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 4 months ago by Salko Safic.
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2 November 2015 at 1:33 pm #131955
Thanks for links Ed but they haven’t been much help unfortunately they don’t work and I don’t know how to make them work. I will have a look on youtube or even better if I could get my hands on one that does work.
3 November 2015 at 1:31 am #131980The threads need to be tight or the jaws will not hold. You need to set the cutter in the threading box, you put the tap in the box and move the cutter till it touches the threads of the tap. Then test it. And then adjust. Until its a firm fit also A wood clamp holds by racking the jaw to the front just a very small amount,a metal clamp works by binding the threads.do to the tight fit of metal threads it is also why a wood clamp has a blind socket to the rear end also some older wood clamps had right hand threads in front and left hand threads to the rear. That is why some people hold it out in front and rotate the clamp to open or close it, at least that is what I was taught.
Frankj3 November 2015 at 1:39 am #131981I’ve tapped before and they all worked so I don’t need to set the cutter. Something else is at play until I figure it out I’m stuck with no solution, in the meant time the summer heat is twice in my shop and the want to work is diminishing minute by minute.
3 November 2015 at 3:42 pm #131998Dear Mr Safik,
Many thanks for making your drawing available.
I have some tool maker’s clamps. Though tiny compare to yours, they have a blind hole for the back screw while the front one is pass-through. There is also a bracket around the front screw, just below the handle. Without this arrangement the front screw cannot work, because there is no thread in the hole under it. Had the hole been threaded, turning the screw would not move the jaws, only the screw. I attach a link to a picture.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-tool-makers-clamps
Apologies if this is of no assistance
Sven-Olof Jansson
London, UK3 November 2015 at 10:44 pm #132003Thanks Sven -Olof last night I tried making a post twice on this but couldn’t I’m hoping today I can. The problem was solved and the problem with the end user me all the time not the screws itself. I have updated the drawings now to the correct measurements which I hope I can upload here, please delete those other drawings.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.3 November 2015 at 10:48 pm #132005btw Frank I apologise to you as you were correct about adjusting the cutters, as I found out this morning very rarely are these threadboxes adjusted correctly at the factory and it’s a real pain to adjust them but a necessary evil.
4 November 2015 at 11:19 am #132026Thanks a lot Salko,
Please forgive me for bothering again, as well as for perhaps being utterly daft, but does adjusting the cutter refer to the tool used for threading the screw? I’m not sufficiently skilled to do anything with one used to thread the receiving part. Being good at being unclear, I attach a link to the kit I have
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-wood-thread-cutting-kit
/Sven-Olof, London UK
4 November 2015 at 6:51 pm #132034Sorry Ed I have tried twice to explain what it was but this site is in serious need of coding, nothing ever works properly here so my posts were not posted and I just gave up. But in a nutshell the problem was with me, I didn’t use it correctly. The final drawings I uploaded are the correct ones which I should of held off till I did get it right but I thought because of it’s simplicity there’s no way I could of got it wrong so it doesn’t pay to be a smart ass know it all but I’m confident this time that it is correct. I am so hanging to make those moulding planes but I’m contemplating on whether I should make your version or get some floats and do it properly.
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