Tool Request
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3 December 2019 at 7:27 am #632936
I recently bought a very nice second-hand Stanley #80 from Ebay: STANLEY No 80 CABINET SCRAPER for £40 including postage. The blade was a bit pitted but it’s now sharpened and seems to perform very well – probably a little better than a card scraper – on large boards.
Remember you’ll need a single-cut file to create a clean 45 degree bevel, some way of honing the edge – either diamond paddles or homemade ones made from abrasive paper, and something to burnish it with. There is a very good Paul Sellers video walking through the whole process using a simple jig.
My advice would be to get by with a card scraper until you find a good Stanley or Record #80 on Ebay for the right price. Top tip – use the “Advanced” search and check the “Completed Listings” box to get a list of sold items, so you can get an idea of what is a fair price according to condition etc.
It sounds like there is a bit more involved in maintaining a cabinet scraper.
Do you think I could I get away with just a honing guide for the 45-degree bevel and the Axminster diamond stone I have (400 & 1200 grit)?
I’ll check out Paul’s video and thanks for the eBay tip too.
Paul was saying a file would not work as the plane irons are too hard, so it would be too hard for a diamond stone too. It could be done but it would be a lot of hard work and take way too long.
I also think a decent grinder would be a very useful addition to the workshop.
EDIT: I took a screen capture of the grinder Paul used.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.If you plan to purchase a powered grinder, I assume every grinder with grinding wheel diameter between 5″ (~125mm) and 8″ (~200mm) will suit your need. Here in Germany they are very common second hand on ebay or ebay classifieds.
Hand powered grinders are less common here, but perhaps nearer to the mind set of hand tool people. 😉
On a hand powered grinder I prefer a larger (6″ (150mm) and up) grinding wheel for it’s bigger inertia.More important than the kind of grinder is the awareness that the grinding dust tends to creep everywhere. So do grinding outside your workshop if possible or at least cover up your workbench, tools etc. That scratchy noise between the plane sole of your finest smoothing plane and the final surface of your work piece isn’t something you want to hear…
E.
11 December 2019 at 3:10 am #635362I purchased the saw you’re looking at Mark. Problem 1 with the saw: The set is done in the same way as a hacksaw. The teeth are not individually and alternately set, instead there is a wave pattern to the plate to create set. Problem 2: The handle is held in place with rivets instead of screws. Re-sharpening is a bit more difficult when you can’t remove the handle. These two things are not deal breakers by any means, however. The weight is nice and keeps the saw in the cut without any extra pressure by the hand. I have a Veritas dovetail saw and many other old tenon and dovetail saws via the eBay path, and I prefer the old ones and the Veritas to the S&J. The kerf of the Veritas is wonderfully thin and true. The old saws are easy to sharpen and I can control the set however I need. The professional model of the S&J tenon saw is the one I should have bought. More money but better saw that you can re-sharpen and addresses the two issues I raised. Hope this helps.
The 9550B has a 2″ longer blade than the 9540B, everything else seem to be the same.
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Problem No. 3: the set on my S&J 9550B was too much.
Problem No. 4: the handle isn’t just ugly, it’s made for fairly large hands as well.I purchased the 9550B despite the known problems because it is a lot of saw for that price and a good start for modifying a saw without losing a fortune when I screw it up itotally.
To address the implications of problem No. 2 I made a saw vice. I chosed the design by Jasper Homminga: https://nerdpol.ch/posts/4516d920306d013617b452540061b601
The recesses at the jaw ends allow to hold the saw without having to remove the handle.
Then I used a Somax saw set plier (the finer one) at the least (finest) setting. I had (don’t know how much) luck: No tooth broke off. After that resharpening (in my case for cross cutting) was an easy process. Note: that happened roughly 18 months ago and I was even clumsier than today.E.
Thank you all for the feedback.
I’ve recently used the S&J 9550B and its very aggressive in the cut. 😒
Can the teeth be sharpened reset or are they the type that can’t be?
If they can’t be sharpened, I’m considering buying the Veritas: http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-tenon-saws-ax935048
But it’s only 12 TPI and I would like to have 14 TPI (because I think it would be a finer cut and it is what Paul recommends in his book; pg 333)). It also looks a bit large for a tenon saw.
Mark, if your main goal is to have a scrub plane, I think there is an excellent chance you will succeed using sandpaper for the rough shaping if you are working with a traditional blade from an old Stanley or similar tool. I’m not sure about a thick, modern iron, especially if it is A2. Otherwise, I think you could shape the scrub plane iron on a couple sheets of 120 grit paper, then use 180 and 220 grit paper to remove the scratches. At this point, you move to your stones for sharpening.
The motion is just like regular sharpening, but you will add a twist, as if trying to screw the blade into the paper, first one direction, then the other. This will develop the radius. Be aware that you don’t want too sharp a curve. If you make too much of a curve, you’ll get narrow shavings and will need to make a million passes. As a start, try for a blade that is nearly flat across the central 1/3 of the iron and then curves off to the edges in the outer thirds. Aim for rolling back about 1/32nd . Give that a try and see if it is enough to give you what you want. I can make a sketch.
Bottom line- You could start making your scrub this very second with a few sheets of sandpaper.
Sandpaper will be fine. Some are better than others, but use what you have. Since you are working the bevel, it doesn’t matter whether the paper is flat. Be warned that using sandpaper on the back of the blade can be a problem. Some like it, but I avoid it, even when spray-glued down to a granite block because I find it dubs over the edge. This doesn’t matter on the bevel side, especially for what you are doing. So, have at it.
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