TPI for panel saw – what’s useful other than 10?
- This topic has 3 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 1 year, 11 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
I couldn’t help myself and bought *another* panel saw on ebay. I just felt sorry for it 🙂 And liked the medullary rays on the beech handle.
Anyhow, it’s marked 10 tpi, but the teeth badly need re-filing from scratch. I already have a couple of 20” panel saws with 10 tpi (one crosscut and one rip). I also have a couple of 7 tpi saws (23” cut-down Disston and 26” S&J). Hmm, I may have a saw addiction 🤣
So … what other tpi is useful in a panel saw? 11tpi or even 12tpi for cross-cutting hardwood panels? Or 8tpi or 9tpi for ripping? I’d be particularly interested to hear from people who have handsaws in any of those teeth configurations, but any and all opinions are welcome!
Couple of photos attached.
As originally found on a well-known auction site:
I have a 8 ppi/7 tpi rip saw for cutting long pieces. I find it very useful when the stock is rather thick and a 10 ppi saw is rahter slow on cutting. I also have a Spear and Jackson 7 tpi filed for crosscut that I bought in Amazon for big crosscutting, though I use it less.
Nice saw, by the way. I have a “similar” problem with saws and planes. Since I like restoration very much, I’ve bought several saws for restoring them, though I don’t really need them. It’s a clear case of GRS (Gear Restoration Syndrome), I’m afraid… XD
A 5 – 5 1/2 point rip saw is a big time saver if you don’t have power tools.
Thanks Julio and Ken!
Btw realised reading that I meant PPI not TPI in my message above, oops.
I think you’re both right, coarser teeth will be more useful for ripping. I’ll probably go 6 ppi as I mostly rip 3/4” stock.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
