Troubles planing laminated bench top
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19 November 2015 at 1:07 am #132533
Hello, all!
I am working on my first project, the workbench from YouTube. I have both sides laminated and am now attempting to plane flat and square it. After planing through the bull noses, I began working on trying the bottom face. I put the two sides together to ensure even-ness.
Here is my trouble: I have been planing for hours over several days. I’ve collected at least seven garbage bags full of dhavings! When I just checked the depth of the tops, I was just under 3 inches on one corner! I do not want to plane this thing down to oblivion, but I do want it flat.
Any guidance or advice?
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You must be logged in to view attached files.19 November 2015 at 1:14 am #132535This is common with beginners we all went through it, this happens when you apply the same pressure on the front of plane as you exit when you did on your entrance. Plane the middle of your top to create a hollow then make full passes across. Remember apply pressure on the toe at the beginning, then apply pressure at the toe and heel when you reach the middle and on exit only the heel. Check your work as you go along.
21 November 2015 at 5:51 am #132576Curtis, I’m in the process of making a new bench and just last week I glued up two top sections and planed them flat. Each section is about 12″ wide and I flattened them individually. Your photo shows you have a couple of stick you can use to check for twist and flatness. That’s a good start. Be very meticulous about checking for high spots.
While flattening each section, I used the edge of the sole of a #5 plane to check for high spots across the width of the section. I would mark them with a pencil and then move a few inches down the length and check / mark again, continuing the whole length. Then I would plane those spots with a #4 smoother and do that whole process over again. Several times.
Once I was satisfied with being flat across the width, I checked for twist with winding sticks. Over the 58″ length of my top, I checked for twist in five locations (not just the two ends). If it needed work, I would plane out some twist, but also be careful not to make it our of flat across the width. I would also check with a straightedge ( I have a 24″ steel straightedge) in the long direction to see if there was a hump or hollow in that direction.
There are a lot of things to think about with this. Personally I think it would be better to flatten the bottoms separately. Then you’ll have a reference surface to mark from to get the overall width that you’ll plane to.
Paul tells us that you can do all this with a #4 plane. OK, that’s true if you’re really really good and really really patient. I have the luxury of a #8 jointer plane that really helps a lot.
Good luck with this. Let us know how it comes out. And if you have any specific questions, don’t hesitate.
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