Tyzack router plane missing the blade.
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- This topic has 10 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 3 months ago by oltexasboy.
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Dear all,
I bought a fantastic Tyzack router plane, but it arrived without the cutter. I was thinking of buying some tools steel and cut a new cutter. Then temper it and voilà. I only miss the geometry of the original cutter. I know the recess of the square section of the cutter is 0.77 mm, but I have no idea abouy all the other dimensions / angle. Could anybody help please ?
Cheers,
Max.
You’re very lucky… the Tyzack router is a direct copy of the Preston router that went into oblivion when Preston went bust in about 1932.
Mine is equipped with the three original blades: they are all 72 mm in length and 6.5, 9.5 and 12.2 mm width at the cutting tips. (That’s ¼, 3/8 and ½ inch).
The shanks are square all the way down to the foot with the foot section being machined to shape. When mounted in the router the sole of the cutter, which is ground and polished flat, presents to the wood at an angle of about 3 Degrees. This isn’t critical, but just ensures that only the cutting tip is in contact with the wood, not the whole sole of the foot.
The cutter shanks are all 7.7 to 7.9 mm square – this dimension is not critical to the exact mm…. call it 7.8 mm. It just needs to fit firmly within the slots on the posts and the retaining clamp. Check the fit on both ends and the centre post.
The adjusting slot is on the rear of the cutter and is 7.0 mm down from the top, (which is cut square). It is 4.5 mm wide and 4.0 mm deep: basically it just needs to be a clearance fit on the rim of the adjusting nut, so it’s best to measure from this on your plane.
Good luck
I just measured a cutter for a Stanley No. 70…
Total height=73mm
Shank thickness (flat to flat)=9.48mm
Groove height=4.04mm
Top of groove=about 4mm from the endSome Stanley router owners have reported good results from using the cutters for the Veritas router from Lee Valley.
Dave
- This reply was modified 7 years, 3 months ago by Dave Ring.
@rotaryw
Max, I’ll try to get some photos, but reducing the size to fit usually has me in tears……
@davering
Dave,
It’s a good idea, but……the Record / Stanley router blades are mostly interchangeable, however the post recess in those plane bodies are ‘V’ shaped – the post recess in the Tyzack and its Preston predecessor is rectangular, therefore they won’t fit. I think that the Veritas router post recess is also ‘V’ shaped.Paul posted this pic in the blog:
https://paulsellers.com/2014/10/routing-the-past-developments/
I thinkPaul Seller Blog
I think that’s the Tyzack cutter…
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.Ah! Now I see. It shouldn’t be too hard too make a cutter out of an appropriately sized Allen wrench (hex key) assuming that you have access to a bench grinder. Bend the short arm a little bit and grind the lower half and the bevel away. Then file or grind the notches.
I think it would be easier using a bar of O1 tool steel. I’ve seen some on ebay in the following size 300 mm. x 8 mm. x 400 mm. Considering the target is 7,7 mm, it shouldn’t be too hard removing 0.35 mm therefore obtaining a perfectly square section. I am planning of having the blade cut from the bar, starting from it’s lateral projection. Then i would sand it to 7.7 mm and temper it. Starting from an Allen wrench poses the problem that the shaft should be squared, which is a lot of job, in my opinion.
Any thoughts or suggestions ?
An Allen-Key shaft is hexagonal in shape. One half of it will not sit inside a rectangualr blade slot such as the one you have on the pillars of the Tyzack router……..
Besides, the effort required to convert an Allen-Key into a working router-blade is not commensurate with the value of the thing – they seldon work well.
Believe me – I’ve done it in the past.
14 January 2017 at 2:05 am #162663[quote quote=144006]I think it would be easier using a bar of O1 tool steel. I’ve seen some on ebay in the following size 300 mm. x 8 mm. x 400 mm. Considering the target is 7,7 mm, it shouldn’t be too hard removing 0.35 mm therefore obtaining a perfectly square section. I am planning of having the blade cut from the bar, starting from it’s lateral projection. Then i would sand it to 7.7 mm and temper it. Starting from an Allen wrench poses the problem that the shaft should be squared, which is a lot of job, in my opinion.
Any thoughts or suggestions ?
[/quote]
You might try a local machine tool place and get “keystock”. You can get any size you want and it is really hard steel. You can heat and bend it but it has to be ground for sharpening, it is not tool steel but it will give you a chance to see if you can make them by hand before you resort to buying the blades from eBay.
[quote quote=144006]I think it would be easier using a bar of O1 tool steel. I’ve seen some on ebay in the following size 300 mm. x 8 mm. x 400 mm. Considering the target is 7,7 mm, it shouldn’t be too hard removing 0.35 mm therefore obtaining a perfectly square section. I am planning of having the blade cut from the bar, starting from it’s lateral projection. Then i would sand it to 7.7 mm and temper it. Starting from an Allen wrench poses the problem that the shaft should be squared, which is a lot of job, in my opinion.
Any thoughts or suggestions ?
[/quote]
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