Using the Plough Plane (Record 044)
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I started using the Record 044 Plough Plane today and found it is a very hard tool to use correctly.
Watching Paul use it effortlessly, and at a depth of 10mm from the shoe, I tried the same, and, nope, no way. I had to set the blade to barely 2mm and it was still chunking lumps out of the wood. It’s well-sharpened too; I bought a honing guide and give it a real good sharpening.
I managed to make the channel I needed, but I have to be doing something wrong. Thing is before the 004 I used the Stanley combi plane, and it was exactly the same. How anyone can manage to get those thin shavings at 10mm depth is beyond me. I assume they must lift the plane ever so slightly so the blade barely brushes the wood’s surface. I also started from the front of the wood and worked my way back as instructed.
Any tips, anyone have experience using the Record 004 plough plane?
EDIT: I might have been working against the grain but if that is the case it would have been really awkward to have gone with the grain.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
I have a stanley groover, but also a home made wooden body plane. The blade should be barely protruding, the final depth of the groove should be set by the depth stop on the side of the plane.
I would suggest that you try to set the plane up in a similar manner to the way you would set up a smoothing plane. Retract the blade so you are taking no shaving, and then slowly advance the blade until you are taking a thin shaving. Note: I find that with very thin shavings, the throat will clog up, so you should expect to move from thinner to thicker shavings in fairly short order. Do this on a test piece, know and work with the grain to start off with.
The last box I made had a 6mm groove, 6mm deep, 6mm up from the bottom of the box. Biggest problem was holding the short sides while I grooved. A simple fixture helped with this. You can’t see it from the picture, but there are a couple of snipped off brads in the fence at teh far end that stop the workpiece from moving around too much. Any form of hold down would do.
Anyway, try to use the plane with only a small amount of the blade protruding. And as you will be working with the grain, you don’t need the nickers down, but you should use the side fence.Colin, Czech Rep.
I see, so when Paul speaks about 10mm depth, he means from the shoe to the tip of the blade, which should only be protruding about 1/2 mm from the plane’s skate?
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
Yes, now go and get your groove on!
Colin, Czech Rep.
Absolutely! 😀
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
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