@ed I haven’t had a problem with the depth stop and fence moving. I did roughen up the fence rails with some sand paper. The nicker is behind the depth stop, so extending it if the depth of the rabbet is less than about 1/4 inch is a problem. You can loosen it and move it out of the way though.
The only downside to using an attached fence is the width realestate you lose, I do have longer rods but they’re awkward and get in the way. I’m yet to find out whether or not holding the placing your finger behind the tote or holding the tote actually makes a difference.
I’m confused. When do you use the fence in a position wider than the blade?
I have the Stanley 278, which the Veritas plane is based on. I’ve had the thing 40 years and have never gone past the width of the blade while using the plane with the fence.
As to holding the plane, the left hand pushes the plane into the wood. ( I grab the fence near the front) The right hand pushes forward. It does not guide the plane, nor does either hand exert downward pressure. There is no need with a sharp blade. Make sure the rear of the plane isn’t pushing the cutter away from the rebate wall.
I have a wood fence that is the length of the plane.
@lorenzojose I haven’t received mine yet, but the photo at LV suggests that the fence posts are just long enough to allow the bare fence to move to the edge of the sole. It’s hard to tell from the photo, but they may not have left an extra 1/4″ for the thickness of a fence extension. I plan to put one on anyway.
Ah, yes. I should have ll
Looked carefully at the Veritas photos.
The short rods look too short and the long rods look too long. All you need is to just clear the blade with a reasonably thick wooden fence. 3/4” would cover any application I can think of. That would allow for a canted fence to raise panels.
I’d cut the long rods down, and either re-file the flats on the end or drill a hole near the tip you can stick a nail if nailset tip into to tighten the rods.
Then the extra length you will never need doesn’t get in the way.
The Veritas looks like a great plane. I bet you’ll get a smile every time you use it like I do with my 278.
( picture attached of 278 and fence)
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If you are thinking door and window sash, exterior doors are usually 1 3/4”, so I doubt that’s what was in their minds. They made their plane 1 1/2”.
The 289 is 1 3/4”, has nickers on both sides, and for a time they even made an 1 7/8” version to allow for paint, I guess. So it nominally could do that. I originally got the plane to clean up sash in historic houses years ago. But nowadays it’s a pretty rare thing. And no way I’d use it for that now. You’d be surprised how many nails people put in old frames over the centuries.
The 289 does work well as a simple panel raising plane, so I’m guessing the Veritas version would as well. They show it raising panels in their ads. The skew really helps with end grain work.
Beyond that you are asking a lot more from a tool than what it was designed for.
If you want to make Sash today, you are probably better off with some version of a Stanley 10 1/2 with a batten for a guide.
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