Wall clock cut timber to rough sizes

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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 44 total)
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  • #13604
    Steve Follis
    Participant

    Very impressive work Mark!

    Memphis, Tennessee

    #13605
    Mark Armstrong
    Participant

    Serhly it’s a secret.
    Only joking, I clamped my top rail in place on top of board. Then I used a hole cutter in a bit of MDF, the piece in the hole cutter was about 1 1/8″ in diameter. I then used this to scribe the shape in pencil first then I lightly used a marking knife. Once that was done I used marking knife free hand.
    I then very very carefully used hand router to make the quirk to knife line about 3/64″ deep. I then used rebate plane to make other quirks doing bottom first as it is end grain.
    I then used a bench rebate plane No. 10 1/4 to do chamfer on three straight sides. On the curve I mainly used a sharp 1″ chisel and a shoulder plane and bit of sandpaper.
    I then put a rebate around edge so would fit into groove in frame.

    Dagenham, Essex, England

    #13613
    Greg Merritt
    Participant

    Well done…the arch top panel looks great!

    http://hillbillydaiku.com

    #13622
    Mark Armstrong
    Participant

    Thanks guys.
    I do like to use these projects to experiment a bit. I am proud what you can achieve using hand tools.
    I have a few more ideas yet to add to clock case.
    Hopefully can do more this weekend.

    Dagenham, Essex, England

    #13927
    Mark Armstrong
    Participant

    Play time nearly got a whole weekend. πŸ™‚
    Got to go shopping with her indoors so lots a few hours there. Once I’m home I’ll get stuck in. I have got to make most of it as I am working away next weekend. πŸ™

    Dagenham, Essex, England

    #13971
    Mark Armstrong
    Participant

    I have spent ages in shed but not got very far with clock. I kept getting side tracked. Also I have been experimenting with something I want to add to clock in some way but not perfected it yet.
    What I have done took absolutely ages todo although pretty simple. I have added Maple ends to top and base using masons mitre.

    Dagenham, Essex, England

    #13975
    Ken
    Participant

    Mark, less is more sometimes buddy. Nice job though it’s looking good

    #13977
    Mark Armstrong
    Participant

    Thanks Ken.
    This clock could take some time. I still have a few things I want to add. I am making it up as I go along.

    Dagenham, Essex, England

    #14539
    Mark Armstrong
    Participant

    Done a couple of things to clock I’m not letting on what I have been up to. No work tomorrow so should get a chance to do a bit more. If I get done all what I get done I’ll post some pictures.

    Dagenham, Essex, England

    #14564
    Mark Armstrong
    Participant

    Never got done today As I had another brain wave.
    Been a couple of weeks since I could have a play. Trying to test myself a bit have enjoyed every minute.
    If I get time after work I’ll have another go.
    Just thought of another two feature I like to add, will I ever finish this clock ???

    Dagenham, Essex, England

    #14627
    Mark Armstrong
    Participant

    Still going to add some more features to top and bottom of clock.
    Here is some more pictures of what I have done so far and I’m pretty pleased. πŸ™‚

    Dagenham, Essex, England

    #14632
    Ken
    Participant

    Great work Mark, clock looks amazing. Nice job buddy. πŸ˜‰

    #14635
    Steve Follis
    Participant

    Its coming along great Mark!

    Memphis, Tennessee

    #14638
    David Gill
    Participant

    Nice job Mark, very intricate

    Wigan, Lancs. England :

    #14642
    Mark Armstrong
    Participant

    Thanks Guys, Yep slowly getting there.
    I’m glad to say everything done by hand.I made a scratch stock which I had to modify to go round curve, and I ripped timber down and planed stringing to size, then glued clamped and planed.
    The inlay marked out and cut shape ripped one of piece walnut into two. I then clamped to work piece and marked with sharp knife. I used 4 different size chisels to chop out for inlay 1/8″ being the smallest to cut the curve. Then used hand router to bottom out for inlay, Glued and planed.
    The sides top and bottom rail put a small round on edge. I did not put bead as I thought it interfere with stringing.
    Just got top and bottom features to add few ideas running round in head.

    Dagenham, Essex, England

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 44 total)
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