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    I got this Warranted Superior saw from my parents in law. Left out in the elements, rusted, and the plywood handle is falling apart. I know it’s a late model, but the price is right (free), I was happy to see that there is no pitting. I think it’ll make a good user after I replace the handle.

    I am having trouble identifying the model. There doesn’t seem to be a lot of info on W/S saw models, almost everything directs me to Disston sites. I also didn’t see anything on the disston sites that it resembles.

    – silver emblem and screws (3 total)
    – plywood handle
    – 20in, 11tpi, rip cut blade



    I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to post the updated and functional saw, as inspiration to people like me who are relatively new to tool refurbishing. I did this work about 6 months ago.

    I re-handled the saw with oak, my first time doing this. I also used rasps for the first time to shape the handle. After resetting and sharpening the teeth, I am very happy with the outcome.

    It’s my favorite non-dovetail bench saw. I realize the steel is probably inferior to vintage saws, but this showed me that even a beginner can turn a turd into a gem with a little patience.


    Nicely done!
    How thick did you end up making the new handle?
    How did you cut the handle to inset the saw plate?

    Help identifying:
    Were there any additional holes in the plate when you removed the plywood handle?
    What part of the world was it bought in?

    I have a “Warranted Superior” saw from a local hardware store that’s about 20 years old now.
    They still carry the same (as near as I can tell) make & model (different nut pattern than yours).
    Maybe you could start there?


    Thank you, @chicago_bill!

    The handle is actually made of 2 pieces of 1/2″ oak glued together and pressed. I’m hoping there will never be a splitting of the pieces. If memory serves, the original handle was 1 1/8″ thick. The new handle ending up 1″.

    I used the same saw with its old handle to cut the kerf in the new handle, after unsetting the teeth a bit to reduce the width of cut. It was kind of tricky because the back of the blade is rounded, so I had to cut further into the handle to get it to fit correctly. The kerf goes back about 1/2″ from the blade on top and bottom. I’m guessing the manufacturer used a circular blade.

    As far as identification, I’m sure it’s a U.S. model since that’s where we live, and there were no extra holes in the panel.

    You said they still sell the same model. Do they still include the medallion? Most saws I see in the stores today just use plain nuts, because the saws are heat-treated throw-aways. Sad, really.

    • This reply was modified 1 year ago by GfB.

    My saw has a “Warranted Superior” medallion on it, but it is one I purchased new about 20 years ago. I can’t find any maker’s marks on the plate or handle. Cross-cut, 10tpi, can be resharpened. Not a bad saw once you get it cleaned up (disassemble, acetone the plate, round the handle a bit & put it all back). Then again, I’ve never used a “good” saw, so maybe I just don’t know any better.

    It looks like Ace Hardware still has it available online Ace 26 in. Steel Contractor Handsaw but I do not see a medallion on the new one.
    Just one more way to save $0.05 on each saw I suppose.

    After removing most of the original finish (plate & handle), rounding the handle edges & applying several coats of wax I ended up with this:

    1990's Ace 10tpi Xcut

    1990's Ace 10tpi Xcut Handle Detail


    Your saw looks nice!

    I think a “good saw” is one that will do the work well. Does it cut straight? Does it not bind? Does it have minimal tear-out? Is it comfortable to use?

    Buying a hardened saw has its merits. You don’t have to worry about sharpening, and they usually last a while. When it dulls, a run to the store gets you a brand new saw. On the other hand, sharpening is a good skill to learn. And you won’t have to re-fettle (round the edges) of your handle every time.

    I found sharpening to be an easy task, and doesn’t really take long as long as the saw is in good shape.

    I have a Japanese pull saw. That thing is mean sharp … it scares me; I’m double and triple checking where my fingers are when I’m cutting with it! But it’s hardened. I’m not looking forward to replacing the $20 blade when it gets dull.


    I have a couple of WS saws and they work fine for me. The story I ready about WS is that Diston sold a license to this company to make saws but Diston didn’t like the quality so he wouldn’t let them put his name on them. Diston must have been pickier than I am because they are just as good a saw as the Diston ever was. Could have been some politics in it too. Your handle looks great and I bet you’ll be sawing for years with that one.

    Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.

    Albert Einstein

    David Berry

    Here is a link to the Disstonian Institute’s article on Warranted Superior saws:

    I’m currently making a new saw tote for an old saw with a Warranted Superior medallion with an 1869 patent date on it and an illegible etch on the saw plate. I’m going to try some gun bluing to see if I can pull out enough of the etch to identify the company.

    Dave Berry


    “Ace” cuts straight and quickly, and the handle is much more comfortable now.
    There’s a tooth (or two, or more) out of line near the heel, so the saw catches when I use a full stroke. There’s still plenty of plate for cutting with, so until I get to it, I take a shorter stroke.
    The only time binding was an issue was cutting some 5 1/2″ tenon cheeks into 2×6 pine that had some internal stress. The kerf cupped and bound the saw.
    I use Paul’s technique of making a knife-wall full ’round on cross-cuts, and tear out isn’t an issue.
    I spent some time digging around the internet looking for your saw, but couldn’t find a definite match. Stanley uses a similar bolt pattern, but the handle shape and wheat detail are different.

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