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6 September 2018 at 4:42 pm #550954
@ed – see the attached photo – I think it matches your description pretty well, doesn’t it?
I used this roller cover:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-3-8-in-High-Density-Foam-Mini-Roller-Cover-2-Pack-HD-MR-200-2-4/202097450Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.6 September 2018 at 4:54 am #550932After quite a lengthy break, I finally found a moment to post my findings.
I used the following materials, very much in line with what I mentioned in my original post:
– sealing coat of 1# shellac
– BM Fresh Start primer
– BM Advance eggshell paint
Floetrol or Penetrol – will discuss the findings
All paints were applied with a Corona Excalibur brush broken in with a couple of smaller projects around the house (and very carefully cleaned).
Applying the paint with a roller was a disaster. I think throwing the paint at the wood Jackson Pollock style would produce better results, and I’m only half joking.The sealing coat of shellac led to slightly less nibbing in the paint, but not a huge difference. I will likely apply it in the future, but consider skipping it if I were in a hurry.
Floetrol vs Penetrol vs no additives.
Short story: using the minimum amount recommended on the bottle of either Floetrol or Penetrol improved the work and the results by a small amount. Don’t expect miracles.
The long story.
I used as a test unit the minimum amount recommended on the bottle of additive. In both cases this minimum amount produced the best results: slightly easier to apply, less nibbing, good coverage, fewer brush marks.
Without additives brush marks were a bit more visible, and some small spots were left uncovered, requiring a second coat. Not a big deal, since I was planning on a second coat, but worth noting.Larger amounts of additives were counterproductive. Penetrol was harder to apply, but after it dried it looked very similar to the ones above. So it would be wasteful to use more than the minimum recommended. Floetrol produced increasingly worse results (a surprise to me) – nibbing, somewhat random dispersion issues – definitely do not pour it indiscriminately.
The biggest problem, ‘though, was that I wasn’t able to paint without brush marks. Good enough for trim paint, perhaps, but not for furniture.
So, much as I would have liked to do it all by hand, I still ended up with a sprayer, because I found it easier to understand its quirks and produce a nice finish.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 6 months ago by aanghelescu.
26 May 2018 at 2:33 am #548198Speed and convenience, if I understood it correctly.
Cutting a stopped groove along the grain is akin to cutting a very long mortise with very smooth walls. Mostly any furrow or bump will be felt when sliding the lid, so the groove would have to be quite precise.
Possible, but difficult and time consuming.
An alternative would be to cut a mortise of some length (1-2″) at the end with the stop, then use a plough plane to cut the rest of the groove. I haven’t tried it, ‘though.
24 May 2018 at 9:59 pm #548133@Craig & @btyreman – thank you both for your suggestions and for the fair warning that my question may elicit some strong opinions 🙂
I will experiment with Floetrol – it seemed more correct to me (since alkyd paints are waterbourne), but I read a lot of (strong) opinions online favouring Penetrol instead. I can attest from my own experience that diluting the BM alkyd paint with water alone makes it nib horribly.
I may still try both -etrols, out of curiosity 🙂As about the wood: black cherry (Prunus Serotina); the scraps are off cuts from the boards for the bookcases, so they are very close to what I need to paint.
Happy to hear more suggestions, and when I’m done I’ll write up a summary of what I will have learnt from my experiments.
5 December 2017 at 1:32 am #393843I made mine from 2×4 kiln dried Douglass Fir (Rosenborg brand, bought at Lowes in the NE). For the legs I bought 4×4 – they worked better than the 2×4, as they twisted less during the 6 months between buying the stock and actually using it. It took several trips to find enough good boards – often they were still too wet, or, just as often, too knotty.
If I were to build it again, I’d consider using 4×4 throughout – they’re a tad more expensive, but it’s less work and less is wasted – to the point I think it evens out in the end.
I’ve been extremely happy with it, and it’s been almost two years. Hope to say the same in another 30 years.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 3 months ago by aanghelescu.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 3 months ago by aanghelescu.
7 September 2017 at 2:55 pm #315627Here are some thoughts based on my own mistakes (hopefully they’ll be helpful):
– make sure you don’t roll the blade while polishing it on the strop. The up/down movement that creates the cambered bevel on the stones will round the cutting edge on the strop, because the blade “sinks” a little into the leather. So make sure the blade is held at a constant angle while you’re pulling it over the strop.
– check the edge when you move from one stone to another – is light reflecting off it? If so, you haven’t created a good cutting edge
– is your angle too steep?
– to echo @dbockel2 – if the back of the cutting iron is not flat and polished, you won’t reach as good an edge. This applies all the more to old plane irons, which may be pitted.As a bit of encouragement: it takes some practice – If memory serves, I went through 25-30 attempts (ruining a few pieces of scrap wood in the process), before I got to the point where I was content with the result. Then, I was pleasantly surprised that more practice helped further still. So, keep trying 🙂
25 February 2017 at 3:21 pm #309523Prime does not apply to international shipping. Some items may be sold in the Amazon free global shipping program – you would need to check if that was the case for your items. There is usually a requirement for a minimum amount purchased, depending on the country (the farther away from the US, the higher the amount, it would appear).
In my experience, the shipping costs from the UK to the US are in the range of 20$ for items weighing 5-6 lbs (a tool kit for children, in my case).
- This reply was modified 7 years, 1 month ago by aanghelescu.
14 February 2017 at 4:11 am #309184In my experience (which spans only a few projects), I’ve seen two causes: the sharpness of the chisel (especially early on), and hitting too the chisel too hard when approaching the break through.
The two may be related: a somewhat dull chisel calls for heavier blows.
One thing that I changed about my sharpening was to make sure I wasn’t holding the bevel at too shallow an angle (20-25 degrees instead of ~30). It caused the chisels to dull prematurely, followed by similar problems to yours (seen in pine and maple).
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