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16 January 2020 at 9:14 pm #645173
I would think some percentage of glycerol and water would make a good non-toxic, low temperature sharpening fluid. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycerol_(data_page)#Freezing_point_of_aqueous_solutions
4 December 2017 at 10:18 pm #393691I made mine from common SPF 2×4 (1.5 x 3.5) studs as sold in Indiana USA last spring and it was featured in the projects page. My legs were laminated from 3 pieces. It will help to pick out, plane out and cut around a few defects such as wane, splits and knots. It is just part of any work with wood being a natural material.
29 September 2017 at 8:08 pm #325742In addition to the above, I will add a few suggestions: the best fix to the above is careful stock selection. Second, attempting to orient the knots in areas which are unseen or less obvious when doing layout. Thirdly, for instances which confound the sharpest, lightest set planes, york pitch and scraping – abrasives are still effective.
16 September 2017 at 4:15 pm #315961For the most part, I use the following compound on a 2×4 of almost any non-open-grained wood that has been planed or sanded flat:
The surface left by 80-100 grit sandpaper is ideal. It also helps if the wood is slightly warm before applying the compound.
Also, for smaller tools or oddly shaped ones, I make strops out of scraps with curves and shapes suited to the object to be sharpened.
The biggest mistake I make is that the compound picks up grit and bits over time and begins to leave coarse scratches. Be sure to scrape it down and apply fresh compound when this happens.
Where leather strops really come into their own is in the practice of straight razor shaving – when the edge is so thin and keen that the act of stropping on the leather will “realign” the “crumpled” edge of the blade.
13 September 2017 at 10:30 pm #315904I have several sets of the Aldi chisels and one set of the HF chisels. The HF chisels were my first set, and do hold a sharp edge just fine. I’ve abused both sets and have discovered their respective failure modes. The difference is in the handle. The HF wood is simply inferior.
9 September 2017 at 12:22 am #315739You can make the mortise deeper than “flush” to compensate as well. Lee Valley has a good selection. I ended up going to multiple local hardware stores before I found ones I was happy with.
4 September 2017 at 1:32 am #315482And I see Lee Valley carries Brusso hinges. Thanks very much! Should have thought of them sooner!
3 September 2017 at 12:51 am #315460Leland,
You really do ignore those closed bolt hole locations.
IIRC, I used qty 2 of 3/8″ x 4″ lags and washers in the rear/underside of the vise (mine is an Eclipse, but nearly identical to yours) and some of the extremely long screws commonly used in timber framing and log home construction for the jaw face screw locations. The width of the bench top is an excellent opportunity to use the timber framing screws. My vise is solid as a rock!
The relevant blog posts that Wesley mentioned can be found here: https://paulsellers.com/2012/06/making-the-workbench-15/
and another here:
https://paulsellers.com/2016/06/bench-vise-part-ii/As a side note, I used timber framing fasteners in all relevant locations of my workbench. They seem to me to be more solid than common decking screws and lags due to their depth of bite and ability to tie everything together at a negligible additional cost considering the quantity required to build a workbench or mount a vise.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 7 months ago by Arthur Coates.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 7 months ago by Arthur Coates.
2 September 2017 at 11:54 pm #315457Thanks for the reply. I should have clarified that I am in the United States as to avoid excess shipping. I was looking at them in the hardware store the other day and it made me think that I hadn’t really considered the correct size or type of hinge that would mate between the edge of a bin and the interior face of a lid.
29 July 2017 at 11:20 pm #314144Since I am located outside the city and have some steep terrain on my property, I use them for erosion control and walking trails…. along with most of the aforementioned uses.
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