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Hi,
Pro tips from all of You, thanks. : ) Now I think one longer, moderate pitched cross cut saw should be more than enough for my needs.But tell me one more thing – how longer backsaws in old style, hand mitre boxes were filed?
I like to play with sharpening saws, just for fun. Here are some more saws I have on hand. One with red plastic handle is sharpened for cross, another one for rip, but I don’t like them much because of flimsy handles. The one with brown handle is quite nice, it has thick, very rigid spine and fine pitch. It deserves wooden handle.
Gents saws – the one in the middle is exceptionally good, it has about 20 tpi (what you can see on the picture is actually its teeth set), and produce the thinnest kerf of all my saws. And I have recut by myself the smaller one to about 25 tpi.Merry X-mass to all!
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Hi,
long time I haven’t done anything with this router. But after that I realized that there’s blacksmith in my nearby. So I took it to his workshop and he just welded the base with powerful welder and a special cast iron rod. Now it works just right, and I used it succesfully in a few tasks 🙂Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.@lorenzojose This is a good idea with Veritas blade. It is also available from dealers in Europe, so it should be easier for me.
Adding a wooden sole… Yes, that’s a point, but I wanted to keep this router for small work, and adding wooden sole seems to me as an “enlargement” of a tool working range.
There is unusually little room for a blade in this plane, about 2mm (>1/8) or so. Is it ok? It could be possible to grind some material underside and make it a bit bigger. And the iron sticking past the sole surface (even in the lowest possible position) caused breaking in one arm, probably.
For silver soldering/brazing… Guys at local store told me that silver solder is not very good for cast iron. Brazing with brass should be much better option (as it is well establish and acceptable way to repair e.g. sculptures and decorative items). But it would require acetylene/propane-oxygen torch, and common “MAPP” torches used for copper pipes would be too weak. And it would be extremely hard to find someone with acetylene torch where I live…
Autoweld/kwikweld?
- This reply was modified 6 years, 1 month ago by Antoni B..
@lorenzojose What you mentioned wasn’t the “old” no 64 handplane by chance? I just foud that googling for more information.
http://www.hansbrunnertools.com/Stanley%20by%20numbers/Stanley%2064.htm
It has all the features we discussed – an uncomplicated one, simple adjuster, no mouth closing, even not easy lateral adjustment. And, what you mentioned, another “batllemented” iron. Far different from more usual “toothed” irons used for veenering, isn’t it?
Today no 64 is a small, featureless and sturdy spokeshave. I bought one new few years ago, but I don’t know if it is still available.
Ha, frankenchisels 🙂 Good for all kind of work.
I didn’t do anything with handles and ferrules, I am just ok of them now.
Well, actually I’ve just found what I can do 🙂
https://paulsellers.com/2014/12/changing-the-shape-of-ash-chisel-handles
But are there any cons of using fragments of copper pipe as ferrules?
- This reply was modified 6 years, 1 month ago by Antoni B..
Cheers guys, very interesting comments.
Oh,I missed that 1-12-136 is a BD plane. I shall give it a try someday.
So it was a true block plane.
LOL 🙂 But now i can imagine it was designed as a quite long plane (for wider surfaces), on a budget/minimalistic side (single part body, one machined surface, simple adjusting mechanism), foolproof to sharpen for a butcher (the angle of the bevel really doesn’t matter so much)… But what when all the bloody and greasy stuff had started to get under adjustable sole part 🙂
I have never seen this type of plane to be advertised like that. What you can get is: “throw all your planes away and use this one”. Isn’t it like this?No offence to any company and anyone, but don’t You think that all the hype of using BU planes is sponsored or loyalty paid?
@ed Buffing on a wheel just comes here as an one possibility.
But do I see a bench grinder with soft buffing wheel loaded with chromium oxide? Here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BJ2hWPpBRd3/?taken-by=paul.a.j.sellers
and here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BHmJZfShFCj/?taken-by=paul.a.j.sellersHi,
@lorenzojose long and very interesting post, thank you!To clarify a little my previous post here’s the page, where are those empty links (very bottom of the page):
http://www.vanedwards.co.uk/rentools.htm
These pages are not indexed (?) in internet wayback machine. It might be put offline, because it might be an integral part of property lute making courses, that Mr van Edwards sells, but also because it might be (as @lorenzojose suggested) a certain health hazard.My intention is not to find another sharpening “sensation” or re-invent any wheels. I am just asking about what I have wanted to ask for a long time. About buffing wheels I read here and there previously:
http://www.classicalguitardelcamp.com/viewtopic.php?t=45513&start=15
see:
“My great breakthrough from sharpening carving chisels was a buffing wheel in the drill press”.
But in the same post some other guys say that they use “as little” as just a two-sided benchstone anad a strop only, and are fine with that.Mr van Edwards also warns agains using oil with any stone – probably it could contaminate small pieces of fine work. Is it a so big concern really? And does it make sense to use let’s say Arkansas stone, or any “traditional” oilstone with water?
Well, thank You a lot for all your comments and bouncing ideas off 🙂 Many, many things for me to consider.
But I must admit I was hoping to get to know a little more about oilstones. I have never used any. And I think one or two traditional, natural oilstones would be perfect combination for a small, early instrument making workshop, because they are natural and traditional 🙂
Let me ask one more thing. Years ago an English lutemaker David van Edwards presented on his website a kind of sharpening “system” (unfortunately, links are dead now). That system had consisted of a bench grinder with an abrasive wheel and a stitched calico wheel mounted, but it had been arranged to rotate backwards (!). So you could polish (with stitched calico wheel loaded with green compound, which had been added also, presumably) a plane iron, or chisel offering it to that polishing wheel in an usual manner. Mr Edwards claimed, that it had done miraculous effect to edge tools, and with macro-pictures included he stated, that it was not only polishing the edge, but “re-arranging” it at molecular level or so. He also stated, that felt wheels hadn’t worked as good as stitched calico ones.
Has anybody seen something like that?
I have experimented a little with stitched calico wheel on a shaft, and loaded with green polishing compound set in an ordinary electric drill. I mean, that it seemed to work just by very gentle but thorough polishing, but it hadn’t enough speed probably, so it was inconclusive to me.
Anyway I am stropping with aluminium oxide white buffing compound (have bad feeling about the green one), but sometimes I use just a leather strop glued to a piece of wood/MDF without any buffing compound. I heard somewhere, that chromium is used in tanning leather (and it might become toxic – beware of East Asia leather!), so the leather may come “loaded” actually. I am not 100% sure which is witch, but some pieces of leather I found here and there really do polish steel when not loaded pretty well. Does anyone agree with me?
@etmo https://paulsellers.com/2013/11/sharpness-mean-real-terms/
@dbockel2 That’s the thing I wish I get to know 🙂Don’t natural oilstones go to such levels by chance?
Diamond paste – that might be something. Maybe it can be used to hone cutting edge on a marble slab with one face polished? Would it work? But continuous usage of fine diamond pastes will be way more expensive that finest diamond plates, probably?
And I forgot oen thing – greetings from Poland 🙂
- This reply was modified 6 years, 6 months ago by Antoni B..
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