Antonio Santos

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  • #737184
    Antonio Santos
    Participant

    Well, that makes sense what you both said, thanks for the information.
    I already sharpened the teeth and I left the set as it is.
    It seems to be cutting well, but I don’t have that much experience to be able to say with such certainty.
    Let’s see how it behaves.

    #730531
    Antonio Santos
    Participant

    Well… I filed the blade at a 60 degree angle, then I mount it in the plane bed and slid it a little bit until it touched the finnest diamond stone, and the angle was totally away from 60 degrees.

    This plane looks like it’s made so that only the first half of the blade cuts the wood, not the full width.

    Does anyone who has the same plane have this problem with the bed of the blades? How is the tilt of the bed?
    I contacted Paul Sellers’ team and John (I assume he is his apprentice) said that Paul’s plane has the number 40 on the front, while mine has number 50. Is this number related to the slope of the bed of the blades?

    This way, the skew angle doesn’t become very important, because it’s impossible for the full width of the blade to protrude evenly.

    I even removed the extremity of the plane so that the blade wouldn’t touch it.

    Solutions:
    – Place the shim of tape on the lowest part of the bed, to level this excessive inclination a little with the angle of 60 degrees (in this case, the blade is too high parallel to the sole of the plane, and I will have to file the extremity of the plane (I want to avoid this) because the blade cannot protrude without touching it.
    – Any more suggestions…?

    I really think that this plane was manufactured like this from the beginning, but I don’t understand the reason.

    #729897
    Antonio Santos
    Participant

    @YrHenSaer
    You may be right, I could be spiraling and confusing myself even more.
    I cut a piece of card with the same dimensions as the blade, with an angle of 60º, and with this angle it is perfect on the planer.
    My question is whether the back of the blade protrudes enough for the blade to actually cut.

    I don’t have a grinding whell, only diamond stones, but I think I will file the tips of the blades, to be quicker.

    But since at the moment the angles of the blades are not aligned with the planer, shouldn’t I use the Paul Sellers method to correct and find the correct angle?
    And why is the bed where the blades sit in an angle, and not parallel to the sole of the plane…? This way, only one side of the blade will cut, and not the full width, right (pic in attach)

    #729786
    Antonio Santos
    Participant

    Hi @YrHenSaer, thanks for your inputs.

    Regarding your points:

    3 – One blade is 55º, the other is 53º, with the new angle formed. When I received them, one was 59º and 57º.
    The cutting angle has the normal angle that chisels have, between 25-30º

    4 – Ok, so that’s what I have to aim for. But If the pointed tips protrude 1mm. wouldn’t they leave a fine trace in the bottom of the groove, when they make the final pass?
    For that to happen, I think I have to also grind the tip of the blades, and that’s unusual, I think (picture in attach).

    I don’t think I can grind the skews based on an angle (in this case, 60º), because if I do that, I’m ignoring the parallelism between the blades and the sole of the plane. I have to grind it base on the method that Paul teaches, right?

    I think it’ll be dificult to have the blades sharpened parallel to the sole of the plane, without having to grind the planes mouths, to give some space for the blades to slightly protrude, parallel to the sole

    Começo a pensar que tenho mesma uma faulty unit 🙁

    #729780
    Antonio Santos
    Participant

    @Ken, yes, you’re right and that’s what I did.
    Once I’ve done that, I’ve detected the problems I’ve already mentioned.

    #729639
    Antonio Santos
    Participant

    More pictures.

    #729634
    Antonio Santos
    Participant

    @YrHenSaer, That’s what I was trying to do, because it seems to be the only possible solution to have the plane fully functional

    But then I noticed that as the slope is accentuated, the tip of the blades comes out of the plane, which does not make it functional.
    If the tips of the blades do not come out of the planer, they will not make a full width cut.

    And the other issue is that the two extremities of the plane do not let the blades come out completely, because they make a different angle. The solution would be to unscrew them and also file the inner area of these ends, forming an angle similar to the angle formed by the blades, so that the blades have more space to slide

    But then there’s the issue where the tips of the blades come off the plane… 🙁

    I don’t understand how this plane has been used in this way for so many years
    Because if the blades are not sharpened parallel to the sole of the plane, only the top of the blade will cuts not the entire width of the blade.

    I’m sending some pictures, I hope it helps to understand the issue.

    I drew some arrows to try to better explain the problem of the inclination where the blades are placed. The direction of the arrow represents the direction of the slope, from the smallest to the largest slope.

    #707082
    Antonio Santos
    Participant

    That’s it!
    Many thanks!

    #702021
    Antonio Santos
    Participant

    Thanks for your inputs.
    I already saw plywood (birch plywood) with handsaws (panel saws), it’s just that I never sharpened them.
    And since I’m going to start sharpening, I was wondering what would be the best, ripcut or crosscut.
    They are the ones that Paul uses and recommends, the S&J.

    #675998
    Antonio Santos
    Participant

    Hi there,

    I have maybe picked this up wrong, but the curved edges bellied at the cutting edge (knife edge), or do you mean concaved as in when bladed lying flat the under surface is raised? If it’s the knife edge that the issues it maybe your sharpening platform. Are you using wet stones? If you are, and especially 400-600g need flatting before every use, because they go out of flat very easily.

    Robin

    Hi Robin, it’s the cutting edge of a plane iron.
    I’m using diamond stones, the same as Paul Sellers uses.

    #675449
    Antonio Santos
    Participant

    Do I understand? Sounds like your iron has two curves. First you talk about the cutting edge itself being curved. That is called a “crown” and people sometimes introduce a bit of crowning intentionally for various purposes. Paul does not, except on his scrub plane. Crowning will allow the plane to take a bit more from the center of the blade than from the edges. Second, it sounds like the back of the plane has a curve, what I have seen called a “belly.” This makes the back convex. That means the back has not been flattened perfectly. If the back to too far off, it might be rather hard to get rid of that belly so as to have a nice flat back.

    I am not an expert, but I would think that if the back is convex, then the front (bevel side) of the iron may be concave. And sharpening an iron with a convex back and a concave bevel side will not give you a nice straight cutting edge. It seems to me that sharpening will take more steal off the corners than from the center yielding a crowned cutting edge. Try a little experiment. I just grabbed a post card which is shaped a bit like a plane iron. I bent it a bit so that its back is convex and its front (representing the bevel side of an iron) is concave. When I put the part of the post card representing the cutting edge on the table at a normal sharpening angle, I see that the edges of the card hit the table before the center hits the table. So if I were sharpening that post card on that table, the corners would wear off before the center touched.

    So unless I misunderstood what you described, it looks to me like like a crowned cutting edge is to be expected with an iron warped with a convex back and concave front. Hm . . . the flip side is that if the iron were warped the other way, with a concave top and a convex bevel side, more iron would wear from the center than from the edges. That is exactly a problem that some novice’s (me!) have when sharpening a gouge. We take too much metal off the center of the gouge and end up with funny looking “ears” at the top of our gouge’s cutting edge.

    Yes, you understood it correctly, and your explanation makes sense!
    It must be what’s happening, indeed, I’ve never thought about it that way!
    I’ll flatten the back of the iron and sharpen it, and see it the “crown” disappears from the cutting edge.

    Thank you for your explanation.

    #675445
    Antonio Santos
    Participant

    Thanks @Colin Scowen, I use the method that Paul uses, and I know that strategy of hitting the back with a hammer, but I’ll look at it.

    #625394
    Antonio Santos
    Participant

    Yes, I just saw it, and so it seems! I’ll be paying special attention to this one 🙂 Thanks

    #623998
    Antonio Santos
    Participant

    Thanks for the input.
    Looking carefully, it seems to be using a stopped stepped housing dado, I think it would work fine.

    #585230
    Antonio Santos
    Participant

    Hi Jim,

    This seems very helpfull!
    THanks, I’ll give it a go.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 18 total)