@betzaleldaniel
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Im looking at the Lie Nielsen tenon saw and its almost the same size, just one inch less depth….
I really appreciated all the advice. Thank you!
I loved the idea of using lateral adjustment to compensate for the wing out of square (not idea as I need to test first, but can do the trick for now), and loved reading the article quoted from Paul.
It’s time I get a number 5 (I have a scrub plane, a #4 and a #7)…
Maybe I will dare to try and flatten the sole, it maybe a good practice.
I am still wandering:
How much is it the weather. Will my work be in vain by Summer time?
To clarify my #7 has one long box from front to back, not very much, I guess 0.5mm. I feel I get good results planing long panels flat but have a hard time joining.
I learned from Rob Cosmann videos where he uses a #7 to shoot. What else would you use to shoot?I dont’t think you got the point. Not too big as too big to be able to build it, but too big to go through the door… Even a bed, if it has a headboard/footboard, I don’t know how to get it in the room….
I didn’t think of the try square, I think it will work fine, its just the right length!
Thumbs up!The question was how to start this awkward cut and how to layout properly since this is not 100% acurate. (much easier if I had done it on the band saw, but now…)
Here, this is the idea, the back of a Morris chair but instead of making it from a thick board on the band saw, I steam bent it.
Thanks Craig
Regardless of the in-line-or-not discussion, I still dont know how to start the cut of the tenons in the long grain/side of the thin part.
I am thinking of knife walls and a lot of luck…
The whole layout in such a small piece is also challenging
(thickness 10mm, tenon +- 1in.)Thanks Craig
Regardless of the in-line-or-not discussion, I still dont know how to start the cut of the tenons in the long grain/side of the thin part.
I am thinking of knife walls and a lot of luck…
