@billstennett
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
That’s great – thanks for the information.
Thanks for your thoughts everyone.
@GRUMPA – that’s really interesting. Do you mean that, when setting the saw, the set should be less nearer towards the handle?Thanks for the replies – I’m going to try the false front route and see how it looks. I’ve planed the old front down by just over 1/8th so just need to a new panel now.
Thanks for the reply – from what I have read these are “bullnose” auger bits and, apparently they are good for drilling angled holes because they don’t have the wings at the edges.
It seems to me though though that an angled hole still isn’t much use if the entry/exit has a lot of tear-out. Maybe they are intended for rough work?
Interested in any thoughts.
Does anyone what type of auger bits we see Paul using in his videos?
Cheers
Bill
If you’re looking at the pricier end of the market then there is also Liogier which are hand stitched like Aurio. Not sure there’s much to choose between them except maybe local availability.
I have Liogier rasp and am very happy with it.
CheersBill
Hi Ron – thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts. You’re right about the small imperfections adding to the handmade feel – and I’m sure there will be no doubt in anyone’s mind that it was handmade when it’s all done!
I think I agree that probably sanding/scraping to soften the edges of the breakout will be enough – trying to disguise it will probably just look and feel phoney.
Cheers
Bill
I had to do a similar thing a while back on a piece with 3 coats of shellac followed by paste wax.
I used white spirit (mineral spirits in the USA I think) to soften the wax and then keep wiping with clean rags / paper towels and more white spirit until all the wax is removed.
The white spirit will not affect the shellac.
Bill
@btyreman – the pine blocks in the first image were just there while I was fitting the linings to stop me accidentally pushing them all the way down while they were still tight and maybe not being able to get them out. Thise blocks form no part of the finished box.
The picture in my last post shows the finished linings with the lid propped up behind the box.
I just have hinges to do and then a shellac/wax finish.
Cheers
Bill
So I have just gone for the friction fit for now on the basis that I can always glue them in the future if that looks like to right thing to do.
The friction fit works but as the linings are thin (3/16” – 1/4”) I’m concerned they might bow or move to make a gap between the box and the linings in the future – but I guess we’ll see.
I’d still be interested to know if there are any box makers out there who might be able to give me the low down on this.
Cheers
Bill
Thanks for that – I’m going to be making a small cabinet with panelled sides soon and that looks like a good option for the adjustable shelves.
Cheers
Bill
Great looking bookcase. Can I just ask how the shelves are fixed in please. Did you use some kind of fixing brackets on the stiles or are they m&t’d in somehow.
Cheers
Bill
Sorry for posting the same link – I can’t edit my post to remove it!
Hi
I was just wondering how you got on with this? Did you ever make the saw and if so which one did you choose and what has been your experience.
I pretty set on making the 48″ version using the hardware and blade from Blackburn tools. The only thing making me think twice is the price. Here in the U.K. the only options I can see ar either to order direct from the USA which takes a long time or from fine-tools in Germany which should be quicker but is more expensive. The Cost from fine-tools is currently 249 euros plus 12 euros shipping to the uk.
Does anyone have any other ideas about where to source this kit?
In case anyone else is interested there is another renaissance woodworker video which does an in-depth look at resawing by hand using the Blackburn tools roubo kit.
Cheers
Bill
Just to round things off, here is a picture of the finished unit. I had a three month gap over the summer when no work was done so it ended up taking a while but I’m happy with the result. I made a few small changes to the design along the way (fewar dividers) but it is basically what I designed.
Lessons learned: get a square longer than 12″ when working on 24″ wide panels; flattening large panels is a lot of work!
This project was great practice at gluing up and flattening panels; as well as m&t’s; rebates; housing dados and half blind dovetails. I think I might try something a little smaller for the next one though.
Finish is danish oil – made with 50% pure tung oil thinned with white spirit and an added drier.
Cheers
Bill
Thanks @sandy1man I will definitely be taking it one small piece at a time.
I now have the wood for the project which has been sitting in my garage for a week or two and I’ve started gluing up the panels.
So far I’ve glued up what is going to be the 7/8″ end panels – it needs to be cut in half and reduced from 28″ to the finished 24″.
The panel is slightly cupped despite my best efforts but I’ve surfaced planed it and I think I’ll just let the joinery pull it flat; otherwise if I try to flatten it there’ll be nothing left.
