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2 February 2024 at 6:49 pm #827836
David Hunter – you are correct but the cabinet is not really intended to move. The reason for the French cleat was just to find a way of hanging what could end being a heavy cabinet. Adding a batten underneath and maybe screwing through the nailing strip is probably well over the top but I really don’t have a feel for how strong the cleat on its own would be.
I guess screwing to the wall does also prevent accidentally lifting the cabinet off the cleat.1 February 2024 at 10:04 am #827485So I think where I am is that I will use a French cleat at the top of the cabinet (like in my drawing) but maybe make it a bit wider. I will screw through the “nailing” strip I have incorporated at the bottom of the cabinet but also add a baton on the wall underneath the cabinet.
I’ll make sure I use screws for the job that won’t shear of as well! Larry Geib – I’ll make sure I never sit underneath the cabinet just in case.
Sven-Olof Jansson – I’m not sure if I’m ready to cross to the dark side and do “pins first” dovetails! I have never tried it though so I guess I don’t get an opinion until I’ve given it a go. I did something similar before, marking tails on long pieces, and I created a bridge out of clamps to rest the board on and stood on my bench to get the hieght to mark the tails on to the pin board.
21 January 2024 at 5:34 pm #825686Interesting idea to add a second cleat half way down the cabinet. I guess it would need to be super accurate in order for the load to distribute over the two cleats but it does seem like a good option.
26 August 2022 at 8:51 am #771722Thanks for the replies – I’m going to try the false front route and see how it looks. I’ve planed the old front down by just over 1/8th so just need to a new panel now.
20 August 2022 at 4:58 pm #771080Thanks for the reply – from what I have read these are “bullnose” auger bits and, apparently they are good for drilling angled holes because they don’t have the wings at the edges.
It seems to me though though that an angled hole still isn’t much use if the entry/exit has a lot of tear-out. Maybe they are intended for rough work?
Interested in any thoughts.
Does anyone what type of auger bits we see Paul using in his videos?
Cheers
Bill
8 October 2021 at 8:05 pm #731854If you’re looking at the pricier end of the market then there is also Liogier which are hand stitched like Aurio. Not sure there’s much to choose between them except maybe local availability.
I have Liogier rasp and am very happy with it.
CheersBill
31 March 2020 at 12:18 am #654987Hi Ron – thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts. You’re right about the small imperfections adding to the handmade feel – and I’m sure there will be no doubt in anyone’s mind that it was handmade when it’s all done!
I think I agree that probably sanding/scraping to soften the edges of the breakout will be enough – trying to disguise it will probably just look and feel phoney.
Cheers
Bill
17 July 2019 at 1:42 pm #590747I had to do a similar thing a while back on a piece with 3 coats of shellac followed by paste wax.
I used white spirit (mineral spirits in the USA I think) to soften the wax and then keep wiping with clean rags / paper towels and more white spirit until all the wax is removed.
The white spirit will not affect the shellac.
Bill
1 July 2018 at 8:03 pm #549023@btyreman – the pine blocks in the first image were just there while I was fitting the linings to stop me accidentally pushing them all the way down while they were still tight and maybe not being able to get them out. Thise blocks form no part of the finished box.
The picture in my last post shows the finished linings with the lid propped up behind the box.
I just have hinges to do and then a shellac/wax finish.
Cheers
Bill
1 July 2018 at 3:07 pm #549012So I have just gone for the friction fit for now on the basis that I can always glue them in the future if that looks like to right thing to do.
The friction fit works but as the linings are thin (3/16” – 1/4”) I’m concerned they might bow or move to make a gap between the box and the linings in the future – but I guess we’ll see.
I’d still be interested to know if there are any box makers out there who might be able to give me the low down on this.
Cheers
Bill
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.4 February 2018 at 12:01 am #461477Thanks for that – I’m going to be making a small cabinet with panelled sides soon and that looks like a good option for the adjustable shelves.
Cheers
Bill
31 January 2018 at 11:39 pm #459108Great looking bookcase. Can I just ask how the shelves are fixed in please. Did you use some kind of fixing brackets on the stiles or are they m&t’d in somehow.
Cheers
Bill
29 January 2018 at 4:46 pm #456463Sorry for posting the same link – I can’t edit my post to remove it!
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