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I’m restoring a small Bahco gent saw with 13 tpi. it had an hybrid cut teeth taht performed equally bad ripcut and crosscut wise. I reshaped all the teeth in rip configuration and added 12° rake. Nothing more than this.
A saw taht starts as you described makes easier to perform a plumb and straight cut . a pleasure to use. I got your meaning: we have good cutting saws withouth too much effort on perfection !
Many thanks : youre messages are great teaching to me . i saw all the video of Paul sharpenings saw. I’d like to discuss a pot Paul did some months ago about rehabbing a badly sharpened tenon saw. Teeth were in so bad shape i thought he would have filed out them and recut new ones; he simply reshaped with a triangular file and claimed it simple work done in half an hour:
https://paulsellers.com/2019/09/filing-brutalised-saw-teeth/
I’d gave up here. What did Paul?
1) one file stroke and one only on each gullet. What is its meaning? i dont know.
2)Look ate the gullets: if they are even it means saw is a good candidate to restore well
3) jointing the teeth with 10″ flat file with fine cut.
4)Reshaping-spacing teeth begins. Paul directs much pressure against the larger flats sayng that larger teeth have to be filed from the back gullet and from the front gullet , iat the contrary more uneveness will appearFour file-strokes for each gullets did the job.
another golden trick is added on comments: he says that giant teeth are to be taken care before other teeths.. so no matter gullets depth . no matter file strokes count: what it really matteres are the flats on the teeeth ( to be filed accordingly to instrucions).
Am i wrong?Thanks for your in depth explanation. I already use an eclipse saw set At minimum setting and i stop to squeeze when the plunger barely hits the tooth. It’s not that bad.
I chose to do so after many trials and errors and it seems to work just fine. But nothing compared to premium saw doctors: probably they own experience, elbow grease and a mechanical teeth setting machine.
When i saw Paul hammering a saw for the first time , all things were so simple but in reality a person should hit the saw with extreme hammer control: Paul owns such muscle memory and experience to make it seems simple and fast. It isn’t.[postquote quote=583497][/postquote]
many thanks for this explanation. I din’t think that much set was necessary since i have a skewed blade. thhings are going well after i polished saw plate. Im going to add some set: but how to add a minimum amount exactly? i dont know.
i own 24″ crosscut model. It comes really sharp from factory. i had only to reduce the set. i used this saw to build my 9 ft workbench and i am fully satisfied. i think you will no regert your money.
i think i have to polish my saw plate using ultra fine sandpaper and WD40. Saw storage was improper and its not very neat. after that i will try a cut or two
tomorrow morning i’m going to post other pictures, non i’m not at home. Thank you for the link to paul’s video. I think the real issue is on blade: the blade seems to bear against the brass spine on the right side near the handle while the blade itself bears against the the left side of the brass spine near the toe..in other word blade is not parallel to brass backm and i don’t know how to fix it..
i found very useful three things:
1) i go and sharpen my blade before i attack end grain and set the blade at minimum cut
2) Sole lubrication gives a good help
3) end grain has grain orientation, also. It means that there’s a planing direction that offes less resistence (and a planing direction the offers more resistance) -
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