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13 July 2016 at 7:44 pm #138493
Lowpolyjoe – If you do indeed give the pumice and rottenstone a try please post a images! I’d love to see how it comes out. French Polish is something I’m interested in trying eventually too.
25 January 2016 at 5:24 pm #134183AnthonyH- I’m also a little confused by the correct use of steel wools and wax.
Length of open air time for the wax could be an issue? You might be applying the wax to thick or waiting to long (or short) to buff it. I’ve had better luck with Briwax over shellac (for a low lustre). I’ve had difficulty using Renaissance Wax over shellac. It buffs completely off of shellac with very little effort.
I’ve seen wax applied with cotton cloth, cheese-cloth, 000 scotch-brite, and 0000 steel-wool. I wish I understood how best to use steel wool…
Steel wool, for me has always left behind trail of steel fibers and dust that become wedged into the surface looking dirty and tattered. Hopefully the min wax works out for you.
Cheers
25 January 2016 at 5:01 pm #134181Late to the forum… To apply over or under latex paint I’m pretty sure you have to make sure the shellac you’re using is not just shellac, but “de-waxed” shellac. I bought a can of Zinsser Shellac from Home Depot and after getting home read the label which said not a suitable for undercoating waterborne poly. Any Shellac that motions the need for a tie-coat is not de-waxed. (I think). Wish the manufacturers weren’t just in it to make a buck, but to add some clarity.
Cheers
13 November 2015 at 9:41 pm #132363Better to take your time to get some quality lumber than to rush it and hate your bench for years to come…
When I stop into the Big Box Stores I try to find out what days (or times) they re-stock. A couple times I’ve shown up as they’re unloading a fresh pallet of lumber. I never go to the Lowes or Depot with the intention of finding something I need right away. I try to cherry pick boards here and there.
– The 2×8 & 2×10 at most lumber yards are more free from knots than the 2×4’s are. And 12 footers are generally clearer than 8 & 10 footers.
– Pick up only (near) perfect boards. It will take a few trips but will make a difference in hand planing.
good luck.
And can you post a picture of the side of the board you were planing with an arrow indicating the direction you were running your plane? It looks kind of like tear out but its tough to tell.
9 November 2015 at 4:48 pm #132172Thanks Matt & JMahoney. It looks like I’m going to have to out and see whats happening at some of the tree collection yards run by arborists and some city agencies.
In non-peak drive times it will take me 45 minutes to drive to the Bay Area Woodworkers Association in Foster City. I’m not looking forward to testing the drive time in “normal” traffic this month but I’m hoping they have some leads on green lumber as well. If you decide to go back I’m sure I’ll bump into you there.
Living in the Sunset neighborhood allows me to avoid most of the hustle and bustle in San Francisco. But I understand that if I’m going to live in this city I’ll have to travel to go get wood. If you’re ever in SF and want to talk woodworking or check out my shop, my wife and I are always happy to have guests.
Cheers.
8 November 2015 at 1:31 am #132129If I don’t I write the hardwood name on lumber I bring home I often have a hard time remembering what it is. I find that over time, even boards from the same tree sometimes can look so dissimilar that I second guess my labels. I also like to look up the species in a few books I have to try to narrow the species etc.
There are a couple great books you can put on your workshop shelf too. My favorite is “The Woodbook” and you can find it here:
http://www.taschen.com/pages/en/catalogue/classics/all/44406/gallery.romeyn_b_hough_the_woodbook.htm
8 November 2015 at 12:47 am #132128I know there will be some very appreciative woodworkers in Seattle. I’m having trouble finding Elm in San Francisco… maybe they’ll ship some down south.
5 November 2015 at 9:21 pm #132059Here is the reply I got from Mark, the Owner of the Bad Axe Tool Works. I was pretty impressed that the owner of the business returned my email within an hour and fifteen minutes. Wow.
“Files—arrgh! You are correct in that they took a nose-dive in quality, once formerly reputable manufacturers began shipping them overseas to China. They just aren’t tempered/hardened correctly, and the teeth fall off before you make even one pass.
There are two approaches here: locate vintage files on eBay. Look for new old stock with a tattered box, but the files are still in good shape. Stay away from the new glossy boxes.
Or
Google-search Snap-On Tools Bahco files. These are the only new files made today (in Portugal) for Bahco, a Swedish company. Snap-on tools has a strong business relationship with Bahco, and they are their main distributor here in the States.
Cheers!
Mark
Mark D. Harrell, Owner
Bad Axe Tool Works
1500 Green Bay, Suite #508
La Crosse, WI 54601 USA5 November 2015 at 5:01 pm #132056I just send their customer service an email regarding where they manufacture and how long they’ve been manufacturing their. I’m going to contact Bad Axe Tool Works (Saw Maker) who is also located in Wisconsin to see if they have any experience with ICS Cutting Tools.
I used to purchase quality Grobet Files from Tools For Woodworking but they seem to be out of stock, or Grobet no longer makes them.
21 October 2015 at 11:29 pm #131582Vincent – I’m in San Francisco and Woodcraft is the only store I’ve been able to rely on. Its a 30-45 minute drive from SF depending on the traffic.
You can check out their website to see what they carry before you visit. They don’t stock every item (in-store) that they sell on their website. So if there are specific items that you want to buy you can order it on-line and have it delivered to the store for you to pick up.
Enjoy San Francisco!
Cheers.
24 September 2015 at 5:33 am #130802I have a moderately cambered blade in my No. 5 so use it for about anything that doesn’t require a true flat cutter.
Its the first plane I put into action on every piece of wood. Its not only great for roughing, but if its properly sharp and set its can be as delicate as any smaller plane. I purchased a truly neglected, beat up old Stanley No. 5 on ebay for $35 and it is without a doubt my favorite tool on the bench.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.24 September 2015 at 5:21 am #130800I used to put my (dmt) diampnd plates away between sharpenings until I statred following this blog. They live on my bench-top, always ready to go. If they’re “put away” I inevitably wait longer than I should (tear-out) to touch them up.
I used to wash them off at the end of the night with soap and water using a stiff nylon bristle brush. Then I would pat them dry with a shop towel and put them in front of fan. Even doing all of this they were still getting yellowed and rusty. I stopped doing all of that recently…
A recent reshaping of a couple chisels and blades seemed to clean the plates of all of the discoloration so they’re brighter now. All I do to the plate following a cleaning these days is to turn them up on end and give them a good spray with water / windex and wipe off the steel particles left on the surface.
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