Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
Thomas,
Thanks for the advice. I’m always struggling to find the balance between my desire to be perfect and my desire to actually get projects done. 🙂
It’s good to hear that you think the legs will hold up. What do you think about the wood itself. I know that glue joints are strong, but I’m worried that with the the size of the table, supported only at the four corners, the wood might sag and the joints might fail (or maybe the wood would split/crack). Any thoughts?
Thanks,
danThanks, everyone for the advice and encouragement! It sounds like I might be closer than I thought. I’ll go with diagonal planing to get the bottom straight and then plane the edges square later.
When it comes time to plane the edges into square, though, what is a good way to set things up? Right now the bench top is sitting across two saw horses. If I stand it up, it will be too high and unstable to plane. Also, are there any tips for squaring such a long and thick edge? It seems like, If I don’t do something different I will keep the same angle but just flatter. Would it work if I skewed the plane iron with the later adjustment lever so the blade came out more on the high side of the board?
I have the bench top laminated and am working on flattening the bottom now. One thing I notice is that the bottom, while it is getting flatter, is way out of square with the sides (see attached pictures). It seems like having the sides out of square with the bottom could cause a huge problem in getting the apron housing dado to mate with the legs.
I think that I might have messed up the glue-up, with the boards being clamped together with a slant. Can anyone give some advice on how to get the bottom straight across the length and width and also square to the edges?
It seems like I keep creating small areas that are flat, but then find that that area is not in a hollow, or out of square. I’m a little frustrated that I can’t seem to get everything right at the same time.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.Thanks @gman3555 for your response. Sorry that it took me a couple of days to come back with these, I had some technical difficulties transferring the files around. I think you may be right about there being a slight rounding to the tip of the chip breaker. Does it need to come to a sharp edge like a blade?
Also, I noticed that the spot on the bottom of the plane still looks different, but no longer has any of the blue/orange coloration that I saw when I first noticed it.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.Thanks everyone for your assessments and encouragement! I appreciate the advice on prepping and tuning as well.
@Nathan Thanks for the pointers about the tote and knob. The description says “Excellent Rosewood Tote and Knob”, but I guess “excellent” is subjective. I didn’t think to ask the seller any questions. I’ll keep this in mind for the future.@Serhiy Good catch, I haven’t learned very much about dating these planes. Do you have a best guess on the type, or would it take more information? I was trying to follow the advice to get a pre-60s model and I was also hoping to avoid the ones made during WWII (type 17), because I’d read something about them sometimes having problems due to resource constraints.
-
AuthorPosts