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yes that is the order my lenses have but I have heard about inverted lenses that reverse this for use when you have to regularly look up while doing closeup work.
the computer version expands the intermediate zone the most but also the near distance and reduces the long distance area.
I use progressives but I have two pair. One pair is standard. The second pair is different. Often described as computer glasses. These are the ones I wear most often and they are very good in the shop. They assume that closer distances are more important. There are different types within this category. Within my house and workshop they provide all the distance clarity I need and work very well close up. They are not quite as good as the other pair for very far away such as say out golfing or driving on a highway.
I discussed with Optician the priority distances I wanted and supposively the lenses were ground accordingly.
Thank you both for your replies.
Matt I think I do understand your suggested approach of thinking of it as 8 pieces. That is the corners as separate pieces . The holes are 1.75″ i think. I will experiment a little with approaches and may indeed drill one hole separating the pieces latter depending on how big the piece would have to be to do this.
Colin I am not certain that I fully understand your suggestion but here goes. Build the frame, put a temporary square piece somewhat larger than the hole into each corner. Drill the hole so that the hole sides are tangent to each part of frame corner and that will leave a curved section in the corner.
I attached an image. The shaded area would be what is left to fit in the corner. Is this a correct interpretation? I assume the temporary inner corner is attached topside and wonder why you suggest drilling from the bottom?
Again thank you both for the interesting and useful replies
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You must be logged in to view attached files.I just recently decided I might like to give the corner shelf a try, but was puzzling over how to hang it. In my case the corners I am considering would have no studs within range of the cabinet unless I built it much larger. There are studs right in the corner itself and then the next one is out beyond the sides of the shelf.
I have thought of a triangle french cleat system kinda like in the attached picture. Except it would be a right angled triangle coming out from each side of the corner. Anchored to the wall straight up the side of the triangle in the corner. Support for the shelf coming from the top or the triangle. I think it would work but it seems complicated to me.
So it has been two years since the last post in this topic, did anyone try the straight to drywall anchor approach? If so how did it work out?
Thanks for any input.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.I too have been wondering about these planes. While I don’t have answers for you I did come across some interesting reviews that may be helpful.
Have a look here https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/.
The page lists various reviews including the planes of interest.
You say that you “need to dimension it down to 3/4″ “, but do you really? For example I have built some small end or side tables. At first, I planned to thickness all to 3/4. But as I proceeded I asked my self why? In the end each apron was processed until the outside looked good, each was a bit different in thickness and none was taken all the way to 3/4. On the outside of each leg I made the reveal the same. The thickness is not visible. When I did the top I again stopped as soon as the pieces were flat and square. Didn’t matter if that was at 1″ or 3/4. In cases where the edge looks to thick then bevel it to lighten the appearance. With another project I built called for a door panel to be 1/2”. The wood I was working with was flat and nice after planning at nearly a full inch. I felt like you and hated the idea of all the work to go to 1/2 inch. After a bit of thought I realized I could go to 7/8, despite what the plan called for and have everything work out nicely.
I know in some case you may have little choice and really need !/2 or 3/4 inch. But for me many times, for at least parts of a project if not all, I can stop planning when the pieces are flat and work with whatever thickness that is.
Thanks, I had forgotten about the susceptibility to heat. I have used the paper method once before with a turning but using PVA glue.
I retried Paul’s splitting method with no luck it is really holding fast. I did get it apart using other means.
I will experiment a bit more with scrap and see if I can’t get the result Paul describes in his blog quote below.“Unlike most all other glues, hide glue is readily split along its glue-line if and when necessary. This characteristic then allows maker-repairer to separate the components by shock-splitting along any glue lines, often using no more than a thin knife tapped with a hammer to split one part from another.”
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