david o'sullivan
@davidos
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Use a water based varnish if you don’t want colour change oil based will depart a yellowish tinge
"we can learn what to do, by doing" Aristotle
standard 4×2 or 2×4 in USA will work perfect i build pauls bench with a saw hammer 1/2 chisel which was used to cut mortises and use in the poor mans router and a Stanley no 4 . try to get the clear non knotty wood for the top . you might need to re-flatten the top in time . it still a perfect bench now nearly 10 years on .
"we can learn what to do, by doing" Aristotle
i had this problem too but over came it by 1 sanding if your project isn’t completely sanded smooth the wool will catch loose grain and tear i.e skipping grits or sanding across the grain .2 your finish must be completely harden off not just dry .3 use 0000 steel wool (liberion ) if you can get it . you can also be quit aggressive when applying
"we can learn what to do, by doing" Aristotle
Thanks for the input everyone. Now I know what shellac to buy but I’m more confused about how to mix it. Haha.
Kevin.
1 ounce of flakes to 8 fluid ounces is a 2lb cut
"we can learn what to do, by doing" Aristotle
danish oil would be perfect for the outside of box apply liberal wait 30 mintuues and wipe of well apply as many coats till you dont see any dry spots i would give 24 hours between coats .clear coat varnish for inside box water-based 2 to 3 coats would work about 4 hours between coats light sand also .oil inside the box is not good as it will always retain its smell.
"we can learn what to do, by doing" Aristotle
It’s a machinist vice mate you could replace the jaws with wood but you also have depth and width issue. Check out fine tools.com there quick realise vice made in chec republic are excellent. Have one now 10 years .
Regards
Dave"we can learn what to do, by doing" Aristotle
If the bench top is flat then you can shorten a leg .what you describe sounds like twisted frame . Have a look at Pauls chair making video you will get what I mean
"we can learn what to do, by doing" Aristotle
the file has 6 sides.. 3 large faces and 3 small faces at the corners =6
with the file in the gullet of the saw and you are looking down you should have one of the large faces horizontal and facing the sky with 2 small faces pointing left and right if you file like this is a negative rake OR (a less aggressive rake). you should file the first inch or so of teeth like this .now rotate the file slightly to the left the large face you were looking at for the first inch is now sloping to the left . the face on the right of the file should be vertical or 90 degrees. this increases the pith dramatically and gives an aggressive rake file the rest of the saw moving towards the handle like this .hope this helps
david"we can learn what to do, by doing" Aristotle
Hi.what you are looking for are called” turn buttons”. if you put that in the search bar it should bring you to the second or third last episode of the coffee table,among other videos.
"we can learn what to do, by doing" Aristotle
hi jotato. iam just wondering if you have your plane set up for a scrub it will make your work much faster and easier .regards David.
"we can learn what to do, by doing" Aristotle
looks great David. quick question did you use a standard bevel edge chisel or a mortise chisel ,i ask because i find it hard to get good results with Pauls method of using a bevel edge and prefer the weight of a mortise chisel. just curious as your mortise holes look very clean and crisp. thanks regards David
"we can learn what to do, by doing" Aristotle