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Hi Richard,
I’m not sure it’s a matter of sharpness if you can shave hair with the edge. In my experience, I often fail to see the actual issue like twist in a board or a misconfigured plane. And with experience it becomes more natural to consider such things, notice them and even know how to deal with them.
Best regards,
DavidI find the real wood shelves (IVAR, etc) to be bearable and I don’t have the time to make a 220x170x50 shelve with two large cabinets, which we needed.
The veneer is actual oak and it’s not too thin; the surface will not be the first thing to become irreparable with that table would be my guess.
This table in real wood and real joinery would easily cost ten times as much, but it would live at least that much longer and will never have to see a landfill. Should it ever break, it can be repurposed or eventually become firewood.
– David
Hi Sven-Olof,
I’m not overly concerned given that 1/3 of Germany’s area is covered with forest. There will be wood to work, if not oak, beech and pine or ash.
Regarding the word ‘Boom’, nowadays, it’s a loanword in German, it’s even in the ‘Duden’. 50 years ago, it probably wasn’t. That’s just how language works.
I used it on soft woods for flooring, shed front, terrace and on a table, but we usually cover it with a wax tablecloth. It does darken the wood visibly, but it depends on whether it’s new or weathered wood, the latter soaking in more of if and darken it more. Oak will likely soak a bit more.
Regarding the stickiness, you have to treat it like an oil finish and wipe off excess, or the build-up will be sticky. Multiple coats may be necessary.Cheers,
DavidIf you want to use a more natural finish, try boat soup, an oil based finish with linseed oil, tung oil and pine tar. I’m not sure where to get it where you are, but there’s Farbmanufaktur Werder in Germany, which should ship EU wide. I have repeatedly ordered from them and find them to be reliable. Quality is fine as well.
– David
Hi Seth,
this blog post by Paul may be of interest: https://paulsellers.com/2016/07/update-new-spear-jackson-saws/
Paul apparently got the 22″ 9500R, but there’s also the 24″ 9515K.
Cheers,
David[quote quote=548761]…premature wear due to the metal’s softness.[/quote]
That’s a valid concern, thanks for pointing this out. I’m not sure you will easily wear out a plough plane with woods low in silica content, but if you do lots of groves, it will eventually be an issue. For the occasional frame, I think it is a great plane.
– David
Meranti is widely used as a wood for windows. It’s fairly rot resistant, I think, but as you said it’s soft and will dent easily. I would use it for items which are not touched much like a picture frame or such. I wouldn’t use it in a table or chair or even a cabinet and I didn’t find it easy to turn. It’s relatively lightweight, so if weight is a consideration, it may be useful.
– David
If I recall correctly, the 13-050 had a steel body (as already mentioned), whereas the 13-030 has one from aluminium. I do have a 13-030 and it’s fine to use. I think the aluminium may even be nicer to own, since it won’t rust. I don’t see any downsides to that really.
– David
I don’t think there is a reliable way to dry sections without cracking. You may be able to achieve this with the right species and drying technique, but I wouldn’t count on it. Two months is not enough time for wood to dry if it’s held as a log. I have year old quarter logs lying around, which are still significantly moist inside. Secondly, wood shrinks in that direction the most; imagine the growth rings getting shorter, the more the longer (closer to the outside) they are. I have turned bowls from fresh half logs and they shrink so much that the long grain sides drop by about 1cm each for a 17cm bowl. And thirdly, as already mentioned, you will have a very weak structure if you insert legs practically parallel to the grain. Wood splits most easily that way with nothing to stop it, as opposed to compressing the end-grain of to two sides if the leg is perpendicular to the seat’s grain.
What you could do is split or saw it in half, let it dry, plain it true and glue it. I still wouldn’t use it for a chair, but as a chopping board or plate, it could be nice. End-grain is hard to work, as you already noticed.Don’t give up, though, green oak is very nice to split and work with a drawknife. I recommend Peter Follansbee’s blog (https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com) for a wealth of solid information (search for oak, split, splitting, froe, riven, riving and the like).
Cheers,
David@arctain I have a few pictures which should make clear the general idea.
First the cross brace is connected to the center stretcher, then the two diagonal stretchers are connected to that. Quite simple actually, but challenging in realisation.
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