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14 November 2019 at 5:18 pm #627296
I know nothing of buying shellac in Europe or the cost. I would not buy a large amount of one type of shellac flakes starting out. I’m not a big fan of orange shellac. I’ve tried, blonde, garnet, seedlac, stick lac as well as orange shellac. I will use a different shellac based on the wood, and style of finish I’m going for. I buy small amounts from Kremmer Pigements since they have a store here in NYC. They are based in Germany https://www.kremer-pigmente.com
17 January 2019 at 3:15 pm #554591There is a Roy Underhill program called Table Joints Rule where he discusses it. Bill Anderson his guest wrote an article in Popular Woodworking on how to do it. Yes its complicated. There are many important aspects to be aware of including the hinges. In Joshua Kleins video about table making he does a drop leaf table with out the rule joint.
16 July 2018 at 4:44 pm #549430I had the veritas cross and rip carcass saws. I only used the rip. I rarely used the crosscut. Sometimes I just used it to use it. The rip will work fine for everything. I loved the tote on those saws. They felt great. I did end up selling them since I never used the cross cut, had too many backsaws, and honestly wanted some brass backed saws. They worked great and felt great though. Now I only have a dovetail saw and a rip filled sash saw.
7 May 2018 at 5:09 pm #541015I built the 2 drawer chest, the joiners and the hanging tool cabinet. I think its important to not look at what others did but what tools you have. The 2 drawer one never worked for me. Probably my own doing. The drawers were just a bit too shallow for some tools. I then built the joiners tool chest. I am using wooden bodied planes that are much bigger. That didn’t work so well either. For me the hanging wall cabinet was the best. I can get about every thing in there. Now I just need to do something about my saws.
6 March 2018 at 8:20 pm #491414If its over set, then you don’t have to worry about putting set on it, or even having a saw set for now. It being a new saw makes it much easier to sharpen. It should be easier then a beat up flea market saw.
31 January 2018 at 9:47 pm #459001Thats the liquid hide glue I used. It seemed fine. I had a friend make some things with it and he liked it. Less of a mad dash during glue up.
31 January 2018 at 2:50 pm #458460Yea, sometimes its listed like that. I use hot hide glue and heat it up in a crock pot. I used pre made liquid hide glue once. I like this type glue. Cleans up easier, gives more open time and if you need to, you can unglue a joint. Only had to do that once.
30 January 2018 at 3:07 pm #457481I had a wooden plane and the handle was loose, no screws. It was a simple matter of gluing it. I used hide glue. I have another one that is loose. I have glued it but there is bit too much of a gap. When I have some veneer on hand I’ll glue that onto the handle to close the gap. I like using hide glue (for everything) especially these types of repairs. If it ever needs fixed again its very simple to work with a hide glue joint.
1 January 2018 at 9:29 pm #425705Does this not happen when you chisel all of the waste out? Normally I think this is a “sharpness” issue.
29 December 2017 at 4:29 pm #421892Not sure what sight black is but that sounds messy. Dykem isn’t very messy. Just brush it on. Cleans up my alcohol. I use it for all my saws. Even if I can see the teeth, it just makes it easier to know what you did.
29 December 2017 at 1:23 am #420538I use red dykem layout fluid. Just paint it on and you can tell where you were. It washes off with alcohol or you can leave it on and it looks like blood!
14 November 2017 at 10:00 pm #366600I just apply the wax with a cloth. I put some wax inside of a cloth and rub it on. Then either buff it to get more shine or use steel wool to reduce the shine.
29 September 2017 at 7:11 pm #325716I had the old narex, and didn’t like the shape of the handles. I got the aldi’s on a whim since they were so cheap. Not crazy about the handles either, and had one tip break off. I ended up with the Ashley Isles (and a few vintage). I looked at the 2 cherries and liked those too. I think Paul blogged about them. I like them. I say get one chisel. Maybe a 3/4.If you can test them out, feel them that’s nice too. Don’t worry about getting a whole set. Get them as needed. Probably only need 4 chisels total.
11 September 2017 at 3:05 pm #315821I may not be completely understanding but you could just remove the saw nuts. You may need a special split nut driver to unscrew them. You can just shorten the threaded screws a bit. Just rub the screw on some sandpaper or file it a bit to make it shorter
26 July 2017 at 3:15 pm #314018That isn’t the normal way handles are affixed to the saw plate. I think I have seen that before but on very cheap saws, but I’m no expert. That method of attaching the handle may explain why they don’t have handles on them. Any information you find about making saw handles wont apply to these. The saw plates may not be very good either. It may not be worth your time.
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