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Is it some kind of noisy fluttering of the saw toe/tip?
Beside the “not perpendicular to the kerf” as mentioned by @Tad, I noticed such a behaviour of a saw with relatively coarse toothing,
much set and machine sharpened (iow: a new Spear & Jackson 7tpi saw).
The fluttering lessens when the full with of the saw blade is in the saw kerf and when I lower the angle I offer the saw to the wood.Hope this helps,
E.
If you’re in Germany, there are at least two “local” sources.
The very pricier one is – of course – Fine Tools: https://www.fine-tools.com/make-your-own-saw.htmlThe other one is to use slotted metric raised countersunk-head screws (DIN 964 standard) and matching sleeve nuts.
The latter doesn’t look as fine as the dedicated screws from Fine Tools, but they’ll do the job and are much, much cheaper.
Built my saw with such screws – in the handle and in the back.
[attachment file=”652153″]
Every good wholesale dealer in fastening technology should be able to sell such screws to you.E.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.@markridley
Fortunately I could buy some second hand Veritas tools – and they are really good tools to work with. Their No.6 served me Veri well when I had to flatten the rough sawn lumber for the pieces of my modified Paul Sellers work bench.
Did you recently struggle with a specific tool over and over due to the idiosyncrasies of that specific model? Then perhaps a top end replacement for that…
Do you use a shooting board regularly? Maybe a dedicated shooting plane would be a good addition.E.
Hello Joe,
I’ve got S&J saws too and with my relatively small hands the handles aren’t comfortable.
So I started to rasp and file off the sharp edges where thumb, palm and three fingers grip.
Additionally I began to shape the rear part of the grip to develop a more accentuated “hunchback”.
But in the long run I’ll make new handles.The lacquer and the branding wears off during use of the saw anyway. Until now I didn’t notice
unusual corrosion – even on the saws where I tried to remove the lacquer with white spirit.The S&j saws are a good base to start modifying – and deliver a good reason to do so due to the
clunky handles. 😀E.
Hello Bill,
sorry that I didn’t try it on a smart phone first.
But i did it now: Login, then choose “Activity” from the three-horizontal-bars-menu in the upper right. The input field for searching is just below the “All Members /My Favorites/Mentions” frame.
Hopefully it’s the same on your iOS phone like on my Android phone.E.
Hello Jamie,
I’ve got that Axminster plate years ago and can’t confirm that “falling apart” feature. Surely it doesn’t last as long as the monocrystalline DMT, EZE-LAP, Atoma etc.
Mine served well, even with stubborn A2 irons. After roughly 3 years of weekly use it is much finer, but still usable. If you do the heavy work like reestablishing a damaged bevel eg. on sand paper, the plate will llast longer.
On the other hand of the particle size isn’t as even as on the much more expensive plates. Flatness also MAY be an issue. If you can visit an Axminster shop, you probably can check “your” plate with a straight edge.The 6″x2″ are (too) small, in particular if you’re using an Eclipse type honing guide. And it’s difficult to sharpen plane irons and chisels wider than 2″.
If you can afford something around £67, this one could suit your circumstances: https://www.m-powertools.com/diamond-cross-8inch-bench-stone.html
I recently bought one and my first impression of it is quite good.E.
Hello Joe,
I did it in the opposite direction with a 13 tpi back saw, which came out quite well.
Converting a rip pattern to cross cut should be a bit easier.
Rip cut usually does have much more aggressive rake than cross cut. So my way would be to file only the tip of each tooth and only the front: adding fleam and reducing the rake.
But there’s always a “but”.
But please keep in mind that 6 tpi is fairly coarse and to work properly, at least 3 teeth must interact with the wood. That limits the capability of the saw for thin stock: theoretically at least 1/2″, practically more. My experience is that coarse pattern and thin stock lead to strong vibrations – tried it out with 7 tpi rip and 3/4″ stock.If you plan to make this saw especially for thick stock, it surely will be a “fast” saw…
E.
Hello Jon,
luckily I got an offcut piece of oak around 1″ thick from a cabinetmakers shop.
I put pieces of 4mm thick cork tiles at the inside, because until now I mostly work with soft woods like spruce and pine and don’t want to have clamping marks from the hard jaw liners on the work pieces.E.
The 9550B has a 2″ longer blade than the 9540B, everything else seem to be the same.
[postquote quote=635362][/postquote]
Problem No. 3: the set on my S&J 9550B was too much.
Problem No. 4: the handle isn’t just ugly, it’s made for fairly large hands as well.I purchased the 9550B despite the known problems because it is a lot of saw for that price and a good start for modifying a saw without losing a fortune when I screw it up itotally.
To address the implications of problem No. 2 I made a saw vice. I chosed the design by Jasper Homminga: https://nerdpol.ch/posts/4516d920306d013617b452540061b601
The recesses at the jaw ends allow to hold the saw without having to remove the handle.
Then I used a Somax saw set plier (the finer one) at the least (finest) setting. I had (don’t know how much) luck: No tooth broke off. After that resharpening (in my case for cross cutting) was an easy process. Note: that happened roughly 18 months ago and I was even clumsier than today.E.
If you plan to purchase a powered grinder, I assume every grinder with grinding wheel diameter between 5″ (~125mm) and 8″ (~200mm) will suit your need. Here in Germany they are very common second hand on ebay or ebay classifieds.
Hand powered grinders are less common here, but perhaps nearer to the mind set of hand tool people. 😉
On a hand powered grinder I prefer a larger (6″ (150mm) and up) grinding wheel for it’s bigger inertia.More important than the kind of grinder is the awareness that the grinding dust tends to creep everywhere. So do grinding outside your workshop if possible or at least cover up your workbench, tools etc. That scratchy noise between the plane sole of your finest smoothing plane and the final surface of your work piece isn’t something you want to hear…
E.
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