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Hey there buddy,
I was told by a collector that items stamped ‘Foreign made’ were typically ones made shortly after the second world war in Germany as it was thought people would be put off if it said ‘Made in Germany’ on it!
I have a few tools with these markings and all are of good quality!
The tip of the iron could’ve been overheated by a past owner, the only thing I thikn you could try would be grinding a good chunk of the steel away – say a good 5-10mm then regrind your bevel. Or you could just chuck it! depends how valuable it is to you.. If it’s the 1/4″ size its very common so can be picked up again.
This is very interesting James,
It’s important to know what sharpening media you are using?
You’ve done what I would suggest by tempering it in the oven for a good hour – time isnt particularly important with tempering I’ve found, on most of the O1 tool steel its quoted to be tempered at an hour per inch of thickness.
The file sounds correct to me for proper hardening of the steel, you can use tools pre-temper they are just incredibly hard (65HRC and up) so I dont think the jagged edge is down to heat treating entirely.. although I don’t have the qualifications to say this for certain..
I think what’s most important is finding out how you sharpen your irons, a jagged edge is typically a sign of a coarse stone – which will still cut well and a lot of knife people like a jagged edge in certain exotic steels.
hope this helps! I’ve done a lot of dabbling in knife and tool making but am not a pro,
Thanks!
Hey buddy, yeah they are probably hardened steel – whether thats to a normal hardness or super duper hard who knows! Carbide tipped masonary bits on a slow speed with oil works in this situation – or if you dont have access to these you could always try softening the steel by annealing it a little (or attempting to) Heat where you want to drill to a solid glow then allow to dry in air, this could soften it for sure!
Elliott
I found the quickest way to up your knowledge of what’s what is as simple as going and looking at some at a yard – it’s really hard to tell in thier rough stage (I had some chestnut before that was so grey it looked like aged fencing material) but they usually have a prepared section that’s great for getting you familiar with woods. I found that woods like Walnut you expect to be so much darker, but pre finish they can be suprisingly light coloured (by comparison).
Hope this kind of helps,
Elliott
I tend to use the no 5 as its truly known, a ‘jack’ plane. It really can be great for edge jointing small parts and its much more comfortable than a 7 (i edge joint anything up to a metre with my 5, seems to work well)
I also use it when traversing boards too, I have the mouht relatively tight for a jack but never find this to be too much of an issue – I have a 5 1/2 I have set up more as a flattening plane.
It shoots well too!
It really is the jack of all trades, and it would be the last plane I give up at gun point!
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