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20 November 2019 at 3:50 pm #629061
Hi Mark,
I reckon that S&J saw will be a pretty good purchase, I don’t have one, but really it’s going to come down to how you set-it up once you’ve got it.
It could have the light crosscut that the bigger saws come with, in which case you may want to adjust them to be a rip – but either way it shouldn’t be too scary if you’re careful and even with the file. You’re going to have to learn to file it anyway, so you may as well get stuck in!
I had to ease the rake angle on a couple of new saws because they were so aggressive the saw would either jam or jump out of the cut, it took a couple of stokes per tooth and now they cut really nicely.
It’s relatively affordable so if you make a mess of it it’s not the end of the world.
Rob.
19 October 2019 at 7:32 pm #619633Regarding your comment about the LN saw being too aggressive, you could probably easily fix that in a few minutes with a couple of strokes from a saw file. I haven’t used the LN saw so I’m guessing at what you mean but I bought a couple of the Veritas saws and I had to do that to both, they both cut beautifully now.
You’re going to have to take a file to it eventually anyway 😉
19 October 2019 at 7:26 pm #619631I would expect a relatively premium new saw to be straight.
Regarding the handle, walnut is quite a brittle wood and, while it makes nice looking handles, I think it’s an example of form over function.
However it probably would’ve been absolutely fine had you not had to bang the back so much. I’d contact Workshop Heaven again and explain – they’re usually very good and may just replace it. I had a chisel from them for over a year when the ferrule split and they just replaced it no questions.
24 July 2019 at 11:06 pm #593045Hi Mark,
I have the Eze-lap plates so can’t comment on the Atoma ones, but my experience of them is that they’re certainly flat enough. A few points:
1. They’re for sharpening and not grinding. If you need to grind new bevels or remove a lot of material then use a grinder or sand paper.
2. The coarse stone will probably “wear” the fastest – especially if, like me you find out point 1 on your own – but it will still be effective. As mentioned above they are very aggressive new and will lose this quite quickly with regular use. The wear rate is not linear, they remain effective for a long time.
3. You need to apply pressure, but you don’t need to press down very hard. You will wear them much faster if you do and you’ll probably end up sharpening out of square. Remember, sharpening not grinding.
My advice would be buy some, either brand, they’ll be fine and you’ll start getting the benefits. The Atoma ones sound interesting though…
Rob.
21 March 2019 at 7:15 pm #555637I have a set of the AI chisels, I’ve found them to be excellent. They’re fine for mortising providing you’re a bit careful, especially with the thinner ones. I’ve just cut eight 1/4” mortises for a couple of panels and the chisel worked very well.
I’ve heard the Narex chisels are good as well.
Rob.
15 March 2019 at 10:41 am #555546I have a Veritas low angle jack plane and, although there are different opinions on whether this kind of plane is necessary, the quality is great as you know from your router and plough planes. I have old Stanley and Record planes and actually I think they’re just fine, but I have been swaying towards buying new tools when I need them and where I can afford them for a couple of reasons:
1. The quality of engineering is fantastic from manufacturers like Veritas and in some cases they come with useful features or improvements.
2. I think it’s really important to support people and companies that make good quality new tools. If we want hand tool woodworking to continue into the future then we need people to make good new tools in a sustainable way.My approach will be to continue to mix good old and new tools.
Good question
Rob
4 December 2018 at 9:36 am #553731Regarding the handle there are a couple of things you could try if you haven’t already.
1. File off a very small amount of the length of the threaded rod. They are sometimes very slightly too long, especially if the handle has shrunk.
2. Put a small pad of material under the handle, the rubber foam shelf/drawer liner stuff is ideal.
I did both on my 5 1/2 and it’s rock solid. Hope that helps.
29 August 2018 at 7:32 pm #550755I reckon I paid about £200 for my workbench wood from a builders merchant a couple of years ago. I bought more than I needed and had enough to make the bench stool, an apron drawer, and some other bits as well. £150 sounds about right.
The wood I bought was PAR but still needed surface planing. You’re not taking a lot off so you don’t really need to account for it. The main thing is to measure and adjust as you go.
3 August 2018 at 8:02 am #549828You said you wanted to know how people felt having watched the video. I actually think that the responses here have been very considered and balanced, they’re just not what you wanted to hear. If you don’t want to know the answer, don’t ask the question.
14 January 2018 at 8:37 am #438183You could mitre the corner joints. The real efficiency here is that you can rebate/rabbet the whole length of wood before cutting the pieces to length. The down side is that it wouldn’t be as strong I suppose.
25 November 2017 at 9:55 am #381938This is looking excellent, can’t wait to see it finished and in action!
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