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7 April 2022 at 6:06 pm #755224
Jeff/Ed; Thank you for your ideas. I never considered a wedge or opening up the gap with a plow plane. I’ll experiment with this before I try it on the bench top. Also, I guess it is true that leaving it as is is also ok. As I’m so close to the finish, I might just move to the oil finish phase as I am chomping at the bit to use my new workbench.
Cheers, John
6 April 2022 at 8:02 pm #755113It does look amazing. Did the first layer of removal with finish result in multiple sharpenings of the cutting irons? Why was the bevel up iron used the most?
21 September 2021 at 7:12 pm #729691Thank you all for your suggestions. I’m definitely trying a lighter right hand and practicing on scraps.
Below is my fourth scrap for practice which I’m pleased with. Note, my original settings were 5/8″ wide by 3/8″ deep. I reversed this (3/8″ wide and 5/8″ deep) and found I have more control with this setting.
[attachment file=”729692″]
Thank you again, John
- This reply was modified 2 years, 7 months ago by John Grogan.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 7 months ago by John Grogan.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.16 September 2021 at 6:36 pm #729019I hope some of you with more experience can help me with the issue I have with this plane. Paul’s video on the Fillister Plane was very helpful to me but as I practice on a scrap piece of wood I run into some trouble.
As Paul suggest’s I begin at the far end of the piece of wood but as I move back to the near end I notice my cut are not perpendicular.
[attachment file=”729045″]
[attachment file=”729046″]
Also, I notice the depth stop has two slides to fit the body of the plane. However, the body itself has only one guide. This misaligns the depth stop and if I try to take an accurate measurement my ruler does not securely butt up to the stop. Why is it designed this way? Do people file away the unnecessary slide?[attachment file=”729047″]
One last thing is the adjustment for the iron. Here, on the first notch, I take off two much or not at all. There’s no in between. I would like to get a thin shaving just like I can with a smoothing plan. Also, too much shaving means too much force and I think this adds to the problem I have keeping the plane secure to the side of the piece of wood. When I switch to the next notch I have no engagement with the wood, meaning the iron never goes through the sole. I’m wonder here if people widen the notches to allow for more adjustment or is this a mistake?Thank you all. –John
- This reply was modified 2 years, 7 months ago by John Grogan.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 7 months ago by John Grogan.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 7 months ago by John Grogan.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 7 months ago by John Grogan.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 7 months ago by John Grogan.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 7 months ago by John Grogan.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.27 January 2020 at 7:39 pm #646695The RED arrow points to the search for the website but not within the Forum pages. To search within the Forum pages only you must to go to the main Forum page.
It would be useful to have the search field available within all the Forum topics.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.27 January 2020 at 4:13 pm #646669Nikolaj; Thanks for the suggestion, however this honing guide is done. I’m not going to try to repair it. Mostly I sharpen free hand and only use a guide for sharpening any iron 3/8” or narrower. Now I’ll probably make my own guide for that purpose.
27 January 2020 at 4:08 pm #646668Thank you Martin. The roller and the screw seem to be metal on metal but with a lot of finesse and removing the e-clips I was able to get the roller free. With some lubricant it’s rolling but is very rough. I suspect this will continue to freeze up.
6 January 2020 at 2:39 pm #643359Paul; All I can say is, wow I’m glad you came to the forum to get advise. This plane looks great and I bet you will get many years of use from it. Best wishes, John
26 September 2019 at 3:52 pm #612355Thank you Larry and Dave for your feedback. I will leave it aside for now and come back to it later. Another option I thought of is to use it exclusively with a shooting board. With a good cleaning, sharpening and leveling the sole and no repair of the crack, I’m wondering if this is a good workable solution. I figure the cracked cheek is riding on the bottom of the shooting board and so is under very little stress. Thoughts?
Peace, John
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