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Thanks for the responses. I’ve now found a new old stock Stanley Jennings bit on eBay. The difference is night and day. The Stanley bit has a slightly finer thread and a full snail with no flats. It pulls itself into the wood no problem at all. (Well, it requires a good bit of arm strength 😂)
What a shame. Fisch seem to be the only company making an attempt say these bits but sounds like the larger ones are just no good for hardwoods.
Thought I could clamp the quarter inch of twist out of the leg frame of my workbench. Turns out that a pair of 2x6s put up quite a fight if you try to untwist them. When I attached the tops, of course the quarter inch was multiplied by 5ft and the whole bench was even more twisted.
Stepping back, I wish I’d taken greater care in choosing my wood (knotty and twisted pine was really challenging to work with for my first project) so the lesson is that taking care at each stage lays the groundwork for the next and problems trend to compound.
OK, I finished initialising and sharpening up the replacement blade (a RI021S from Ray Iles). The difference is night and day. The new blade sharpened easily and quickly, took a razor edge, and, now it’s sharp, it’s leaving a glass-smooth finish on the wood 🙂
I think I’m at 30 degrees. I actually tried tempering the steel. Seems to have stopped it from crumbling but I think maybe I went too far and made the steel too soft. I’ve been ill this week so I haven’t had chance to give it a proper try though. I also bought a new iron on the assumption that I’d need up the tempering so I’ll be able to compare that once I get back to it.
I’m using an EZE-LAP coarse diamond stone with glass cleaner for lubrication. I wipe off the stone if I feel any bumps.
It’s an ebay purchase so anything is possible. It didn’t have a concave bevel when I bought it though so that suggests it wasn’t ground on a wheel.
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