Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
22 October 2016 at 5:24 am #141778
You know Tom I thought for sure because that I cut the tip completely off that I would at the least it would have a flat spot on the tip of my finger but It grew back so fast and so complete that I cant even tell which finger it was anymore.
It never ceases to amaze me just how magical our bodies are when it comes to healing. I will say this though I watch where my fingers are with much more accuracy in relation to the tip of that marking knife these days. lol. Cheers31 August 2016 at 4:45 pm #139825Hey Steve, remarkably it’s healed up good. I was surprised that much skin grew back. Even that or I’m part Lizard lol.
27 August 2016 at 11:34 pm #139737Twice, That had to hurt the second time. lol. I guess it was all healed up when you did it the second time cause I know I haven’t let a knife get even close to that finger since. If I would just stop bumping it to things I would be much better. Ha ha. But it is healing really good, and fast. I thought for sure It wasn’t going to heal because of the hole that was there. but its growing back like a Lizards tail. Cheers
Chris23 August 2016 at 7:06 pm #139625Or you could just buy one that’s not broke. There a dime a dozen. And then get to using it asap. I just had one come apart three days ago on a Beautiful # 5 1/2 It was all original but like yours the handle had been glued back after Im sure the plane was dropped. Even though they did a great job at gluing it back it still snapped on me so I just went on ebay and found a matching set tote and knob. Rosewood the exact same color as the original ones and walah. Cost me 10.00 just an option. All will work for sure. Cheers
23 August 2016 at 2:54 am #139605Hello Julio, Its none of my business for sure and please forgive me if I’m out of place here but I just wanted to say this. I’ve tried all of it and what I have found out is using Paul’s method Its faster, Sharper, The edge last longer and with the chisels you can do so much more than with a straight bevel even with a secondary bevel. The Macro bevel is really awesome. When My blade on my plane gets dull I can pop out my three diamond stones, I made a tray that holds all three and in less than three minutes I’m back working again with the stones put away back in the cabinet. I admit it did take me a little while to get it down pat maybe three months but I’m a real slow learner. I have the KIng, Ohishi, and Shapton up to 16,000 but the green aluminum oxide strop paste does a better polishing job than all. I do use my water stones for some sharpening on certain tools. I also use Diamond Paste as well. Even sanding Mesh for some crazy profiles. But since I started using Paul’s Method two years ago I now spend more time working than sharpening and that makes me happy. I tried to fine tune Paul’s method with water stones and such but I think he has already streamlined the sharpening process with his 50 plus years experience . I’m just trying to share this in case you prefer to build as well like I do. I hope I’m not saying the wrong thing here. Cheers
Chris22 August 2016 at 3:24 pm #139582That’s good to hear, actually I have an appointment today with a hand specialist for my Dupytrans syndrome, funny uh. And Bob I have already bumped it into everything but the kitchen sink so far so that was funny. After I stopped the bleeding last night I went back to work and after about an hour went by I bumped it into the wall and almost never got it to stop bleeding so I went home.
Thanks for all the comments I really was worried that maybe I would have to have a skin graft or something. The picture I took makes it look smaller than it really is.
I couldn’t believe I sliced off the end of my finger It was so fast I didn’t even have time to react. I’ve cut thin pieces before but nothing this deep and large. Thanks again for comments.
Keep on Woodworking!!17 December 2015 at 3:48 am #133221Max, This is a funny story ,the exact same thing happened to me about ten years ago. I watch this person go completely out of their mind over two tiles. I realized very quick that I was dealing with someone who was not quite all there. So I packed up my tools bid them a happy and prosperous life and moved on down the road. Press hard, three copies, the bottom one is your’s……… Next..
17 December 2015 at 1:54 am #133220I bought two boxes of the blades from Cincinnati Surgical so I guess I plan on living two life times. Is that possible? I plan on being buried with my tools, So If reincarnation is a possibility my new Mom is going to be busy on the day she has me. Especially with my Bandsaw. lol
3 October 2015 at 1:33 am #131012Dat Be Me who wanted to see Paul doing a video on building a Bow saw.
I have a couple small 12″ saws but I was really more curious as to the different size Bow saws and what each function would be.
Besides all that , I do like your saw you made though it looks very solid and well built. Where did you say you bought those blades?Paul uses a hacksaw blade in the one he was using in I think one of the Chair project videos.
I just wanted to say that was a very nice job you did there I appreciate you sharing it with us.
Thanks
Chris30 September 2015 at 2:40 am #130947Traditional Woodworker, Tools for working wood, They are as good maybe better than the ole Vintage ones. Peter Barnes in the UK on Ebay usually has them If not listed then email him on ebay. The best place I found for the vintage ones are Auctions. Like The David Stanley Auctions they just had one this past Saturday and he had five or six sets. I’ve bought three or four sets from him and Two were Old Vintage Irwin’ s in the box but had never been used. Not even once. But If you can afford it the new ones from Tools for working wood are awesome bits. Hope this will help you. Sometimes the dealers are a little pricey compared to what you can buy them for. I can say this before I pay $300.00 for a set of Vintage bits I would buy brand new ones . Oh yea also Fuller still makes them as well. Email them and ask for a Catalog they will send you one and the price sheet. Cheers Chris
30 September 2015 at 1:25 am #130946Yes it would be nice. I just got a spokeshave kit from Veritas today , Its one that Paul talks about in the recent spoke shave sharpening Video so Im looking forward to making me a home made spokeshave. Well almost HomeMade. Thanks for the reply I cant believe more people didn’t want to see him build one and then build one for themselves. There very handy to have. Cheers Chris
28 September 2015 at 2:18 am #130887Hello Chris, I thought about what you were asking and I think the smaller Bow saws like the ones your mentioning here is for cutting curves in thinner stock though Im not 100% sure. Or maybe I am.
You can make a larger bow saw and use an old bandsaw blade or even a hacksaw blade Like Paul says in one of his videos. Either will probably work fine. Though I tried to drill a hole through a used band saw blade one time and I couldn’t even get the drill bit to start to cut. I was using a cobalt bit but apparently the Band saw blade is much harder. Maybe someone would read this message will have some advise on what type of drill bit to use that will cut through a band saw blade.
And If Im wanting to cut through say 8/4 QSWO what tooth configuration would you want to use in conjunction with a hand powered Bow saw that will cut this type of wood without killing yourself in both rip and CC. Thanks for the questions, and keep them coming. Its always fun talking and meeting fellow woodworkers and sharing experiences and ideas. Its a great way to help teach yourself the craft especially if your not fortunate enough to attend one of the many inexpensive woodworking schools. Cheers6 September 2015 at 6:23 pm #130130Thanks for all your ideas and help I finally got it right. It wasn’t my backs they are flat. It was a combination of things that was causing this. First of all I was dropping my hand to far down really I had too much movement going on but I will say that squaring up the blade whether it was a plane iron or a chisel made a huge difference. I also pay closer attention to where the abrading is taken place and then adjusting pressure or angle to compensate where it needed to be cut.
My cutting tools have always been super sharp but I will say this method is awesome not only are they razor sharp but the irons in my bench planes now cut much better. It feels solid in the cut and smooth. I’ve even done this on my Lie Nielsen Planes and WOW what a difference. I’m not just saying this to be talking in fact I don’t normally use forums mainly because I would much rather be building something and I don’t like bothering people.
I still have a problem doing the corners so instead when I get u between my fine and super fine stone , I make about four to five strokes on a 1200 mesh Odate Diamond plate I bought a few years back when they were available. And that cambers the blade slightly enough to perfection. Again thank you for your help I do appreciate it.
Cheers
Chris2 September 2015 at 2:25 am #130007Yea , Well it has me puzzled even more ,lol Ive done everything I could think of . It has to be something Im doing wrong here. I can Manipulative the iron and get it to work . I was able to last night anyway. I did this by deliberately lifting the blade ever so slightly on its sides and creating a camber across its width. Then by the time I get to my super fine stone I run several straight stokes to wash out some of the camber. I do notice this also that If I dont pay close attention and compensate for it the blade will cut out of square and its always the left side that has more metal removed than the right siide so I must be relaxing my right hand too much or putting to much pressure with my left finger thats sitting on top of the left side of the cutting iron. Chisels I cant sharpen at all this way it just totally screws them up they end up way out of square so I dont even try for now . I try to conscientiously pay attention to make sure that Im not leaning one way more or the other or putting more pressure on one side or the other so again Im confused. Do you sharpen this way? I have no idea. You can see the slight hollow or concave in the center of the irons when Im thru so It obvious what the problem is with the iron, There’s no question about whats happening. Thanks Chris
2 June 2015 at 1:43 am #127447Matt, I don’t want to burst your bubble but I do believe that I have you beat as being the slowest woodworker in the South. Just ask anybody that knows me and they will kindly confirm. lol
Just to give you an example, ever since Paul came out with the milling up long rough stock for the trestle table project that’s exactly what I have been doing and Im still not finished. Now That’s slow. My arms look like Popeye the Sailor mans, after the spinach fix of course. I believe I’m on my sixth fifty gallon drum of wood shavings. My Joiner and Planer has been cursing me for neglect. rightfully so. This is hard work when you don’t have a clue as to what your doing. Take care, Chris -
AuthorPosts