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20 May 2021 at 6:56 am #713955
Thanks everyone – I will check out the hand creams suggested; I’ve just tried gymnast’s chalk – no good; Sven, I was born in Denmark but raised in Australia since 1963.
If all fails I will indeed be visiting my doctor again.
I’ll let you know if I have any success.20 May 2021 at 6:49 am #713953Already roughen handles of my tools or with new handles I make I don’t smooth them off.
18 May 2021 at 12:31 pm #713713Sounds promising – any idea what the key ingredients are in the moisturiser you use?
18 May 2021 at 10:42 am #713704I have the same plates (for about 18 months now) and the coarse one is still much coarser than the others.
23 December 2020 at 9:42 am #691397OK – in short – angled dovetails are no different to make than regular ones.
I followed Paul’s method and it came out fine.
The only real difference is that the shoulder lines for the both the dovetail and the pins are a little further in from the end because the end of the wood is slightly wider from being cut at an angle not 90 degrees.
I’ve attached some photos but only 4 are allowed so they may not be all that explanatory.[attachment file=”691398″]
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- This reply was modified 3 years, 3 months ago by Flemming Aaberg.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 3 months ago by Flemming Aaberg.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.21 December 2020 at 9:08 pm #691156Thanks Sven – looks like just what I need – I’ll have to study it carefully. Might be a little while before I get to it though but get to it I will. If I have a success I’ll post it here.
18 October 2019 at 7:03 am #619154Where the end grain of pine has significant bands of different hardness in the growth rings I first drill a very fine pilot hole then follow that up with another larger pilot hole about half the width of the snail of the auger. This reduces the risk of a wandering bit.
18 October 2019 at 6:32 am #619149I can vouch for the Human Dimension book – designed and built our house using it and everyone tells us the house just somehow feels ‘right’.
18 October 2019 at 6:26 am #619148I have Ezelaps and I mostly use the fine plate and occasionally the medium – rarely use the coarse so it is lasting well. When I do use the coarse it’s usually after I have done remedial bevel adjustment using coarse paper.
24 June 2019 at 11:24 am #583957I bought a Stanley honing guide that came with a stone (which I discarded) -it’s closer to the rubbish end of town but sufficent. The honing guide is good enough to get the 25 degree angle – I then put the 30 degrees on by hand without the guide as per Paul’s technique.
24 June 2019 at 11:19 am #583956Really depends on what you’re doing – but – long story short – I use what is most appropriate for the task.I use 0.5mm HB Staedler mechanical pencil and carry in my pocket at all times when doing general wood working – but have several around in case I forget. I also use 3B regular pencils for coarse marking when doing carpentry and ‘near enough’ work. And of course a knife for precision work. And just for context – I use a hatchet to chop an approximate mark when chain sawing fire wood – 1/2 inch either way is good enough.
5 May 2019 at 6:04 am #558053I find that to remove a bow (end to end) I usually have to remove more stock off the two high ends and the reverse side middle than I expect. So I usually go a little more aggressively to start with. How long are the pieces generally and how do you measure straightness? I use an aluminium rectangular tube because I find my wooden straight edges develop a slight bow because I work outside on a verandah.
2 May 2019 at 10:27 am #557792Thanks for sharing this one. The ease with which they do it makes gum look like balsa.
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