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You may want to be wary of the 400 grit Eze-Lap. This is the most expensive stone of the set and seems to lose it’s surface – see the thread longevity of coarse EZE lap diamond plate on this forum.
I’m using an AM-Tech coarse stone now as my Eze-Lap 400 is useless, it’s noit as big but it’s lasted longer and is cheap enough so I won’t be broken hearted/walleted to replace it.As a follow-up, I bought my Eze-Lap stones from ToolventureUK on eBay (UK), so I contacted them about the problem and pointed them to this thread.
The guy at ToolventureUK called me and apologized and said he’d be in contact with Eze-Lap in the States but it may take a while. To cut to the chase, I got another call from him yesterday to say that Eze-Lap have admitted a fault and I now have a refund in my PayPal account.
I’m glad to see this thread – it clarifies the problem I’ve been having.
I was beginning to think I’d put my coarse and fine plates in the wrong order (the fact that they’re not labeled in any way doesn’t help) because what I thought was the coarse plate currently feels smoother than the fine one!
For simple resharpening purposes, the fine and superfine seem perfectly adequate so I only really need coarse for flattening the back of a new chisel or plane blade or grinding out damage.
I’ve got a couple of thick glass blocks left over from an abortive trial of the ‘scary sharp’ system so I reckon I’ll just get some 250 & 400 grit paper stuck on these for when I need coarse work. OK so float glass isn’t absolutely perfectly flat but I’m sure it’s adequate for my needs.Hah! Done it. The good old appliance of science. I stuck the bar in the bottom of oven below the Sunday roast to use the different coefficient of expansion between brass and steel and I’ve now got the screws (not small bolts) out. When it cools down I’ll start figuring out how to change the pins.
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