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3 May 2015 at 8:33 am #126950
I had exactly the same trouble on exactly the same task. So I sharpened and set my saw a little more aggressively, so I didnt need to use so much force, let the saw do the work….my next effort was much better.
29 March 2015 at 11:15 am #126061A nice pick-up by Mum. The two larger saws are in fact one or two man cutters. You notice on the top edge of each blade there are a couple of holes to attach the second handle. As such, with the handles missing, they are not complete. This is a good video on refubing such a saw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YGecIjuy2I
4 March 2015 at 1:23 pm #125235Well there you go Eddie, I have no doubt that Paul bases his stropping decisions on years of practice & experience…..but so do I. Most craftsmen who strop really sharp fine blades like razors and scalpels use the grain side, in my experience. I’ll say one thing though, I’ve noticed in at least one video Paul stropping a blade and the leather parting from and turning up from the wood block it was fixed to. If he glued the leather to the block flesh side down that would never happen.
4 March 2015 at 10:30 am #125232Woah! I may be new to woodwork but I’ve been stropping blades all my adult life as a leatherworker/chef. Leather has two sides, the grain (smooth) side and the flesh (rough) side. Stropping is the final treatment to a sharpened edge and the strop surface should be as smooth and flat as possible, primed with a fine abrasive. I and all the “seriously sharp” people I know strop on the grain side of leather. Michi got it right.
22 February 2015 at 9:12 am #124953Eddie, I bought 8 x 2 foots from Screwfix and last week reinforced them with a baton in the way Paul has. It’s made a world of difference to the feel of clamping and is definitely worth doing in my opinion.
21 February 2015 at 9:12 am #124883I have to be honest, as this forum’s resident cheapskate I wouldn’t touch them. You could buy half a dozen servicable saws for that money with different tpis. Also, except for the joy of ownership, how much use will the 5 1/2 be to you? The Re ord with full set is at the top end but worth it maybe.
7 February 2015 at 10:49 am #124461For a sacrificial and inexpensive option, overlay the bench top with hardboard, then lip the edge with hardwood strip. It’ll look beautiful and will be very servicable, then, when that gets all beat up and battered, just strip it off and re-do.
5 February 2015 at 8:29 pm #124411Thankfully, I’m still happy using wet & dry abrasives and my second hand Tormek system and I’m satisfied with the results. The money involved with diamond plates was always an issue for me, I couldn’t justify the cost, when I get good results by just increasing the frequency and regularity of my sharpening. I am really sorry to hear of the disappointment others are experiencing with these very expensive accessories.
1 February 2015 at 11:43 am #124186What a very kind gesture. I hope they go to a good home and are appreciated.
26 January 2015 at 3:04 pm #123905I believe weight=strength when it comes to simple technology like a vice. The 4kg is probably a very poor specimen. If cost isn’t too great an issue I’d also go for a 9″ as well.
15 January 2015 at 2:07 pm #123556I have to say, I’ve had a couple of duff Silverline tools bought online and avoid the brand these days. I have a couple of Warrington hammers, both Stanley, both bought used from eBay and they are very nice in the hand. Faithfull seems to be a quality but budget brand and I have a plane and a hatchet of theirs I am delighted with.
I can’t comment on the other makes you mention but I would also say you could do worse than Forge Steel available from Screwfix if new budget tools bought on the high street are preferable.
Good luck
Gareth -
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