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I have a saw identical to this one and it is my favorite dovetail saw. Personally, I’d finish cleaning it, joint, sharpen, and set and have a wonderful saw ready for another 200 years. Of course, that’s just my opinion. As I’m sure you have noticed, Paul’s dovetail and tenon saws are all R. Groves and Sons.
Another option: I purchased an older Stanley #4C (corrugated) several years ago when I was just getting started. Over time, I decided that I would rather have a smooth sole, so I watched on eBay and within a week had found a replacement smooth sole of the same vintage. Best of all, it just cost a few dollars. A few minutes swapping out parts and fettling and I had a great plane that I’m still using today. Best of luck!
Gary Blair
Lander, WyomingIf building a bench and not having enough clamps (As if anyone ever has enough!), would this not be the ideal project to use nail/pinch dogs such as Paul showed how to make? I recently made a set of 8 on his pattern (though I must admit….. I did use a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel instead of a hacksaw for the cross cuts).
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Hello all. I don’t believe its the leather as much as the buffing compound. I had one green buffing stick (type/maker unknown) that would flake and was hard to apply. Then I ordered a stick on-line. I don’t remember what dealer I ordered from, but the manufacturer is “Formax” (www.formaxmfg.com). It’s called “Micro Fine Honing Compound, Product No. 12668. It works great and is easy to apply. I took a scrap piece of 3/4” Baltic birch plywood (any stable wood would do…) and used contact cement to attach a scrap of elk skin, rough-side out (suede). I have also used this same compound on a block of bare wood as Paul shows. Works great either way. I hope this helps.
For those needing an inexpensive scrub plane, I followed Paul’s suggestion and bought a “worn” wooden coffin plane that the mouth had enlarged through many decades of use. Whoever had the plane prior to me must have had the same idea; the iron was already ground to a convex. All I had to do was sharpen and hone and it works great! The best part: I bought the plane on eBay for about half of what it cost to ship it to me! A very affordable option. The only downside is the iron is almost worn out, but I already have a piece of O1 tool steel to make a replacement.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.I had an older Marples that fractured on the edge when I was chopping a mortise. As Matt said, levering out the waste is the most dangerous time. Paul mentioned recently in a video (Bow Saw, Part 1) that dragging the chisel on the bottom of the mortise may also lead to a fractured edge. In my case, I was lucky; it only cost me about 1/8″ (2mm?) and some time.
Hi Matt! No kit. I rough cut with a hack saw and shaped with a single-cut file. I ground the bevel with a bench grinder, quenching in water every few seconds. Then I drilled the holes in the steel with an Irwin #10 bit and tapped with a 14-20NS tap. I got 2 brass machine bolts and cut the heads off and filed the cuts smooth, screwed them in after applying Loc-tite. For the fine adjustment set screws, I used a #29 drill & an 8-32NC tap. You’re right about the thumb indents; they not only make it more comfortable, but help to maintain a consistent hold for some tasks. After all the shaping was done, I finished it with one coat of Danish oil & three coats of amber shellac and wax applied with 0000 steel wool. I bought the brass thumb screws and the O1 tool steel strip on eBay. Except for the wood, everything else came from the local ACE Hardware. A fun, one evening project!
My Dad was a farmer in Texas from the 1920s until his death in the 80s. I can’t count the number of times I saw him squat down, pick up a handful of rich soil, and squeeze it in his hand…..obviously loving the land and what he was doing. I see the same look on Paul’s face every time he picks up a tool or runs his hand over a piece of wood he has just surface planed. In addition to what we learn from his lessons, just watching him work is one of my favorite activities.
Roy did that on the saw they were recreating so that, as the holes that the handle pins go in enlarge over time, it wouldn’t put strain on the mortise and tenon. I would think it would also help when adjusting blade tension. Also, Gramercy Tools (“Tools for Working Wood”) sells bow saw blades, handle pins and complete handles for those like me that don’t have a lathe. I’ve also seen free templates on-line for the entire saw. When I remember where I saw it, I’ll post again.
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