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My lighting is fairly strong, and from six sources, therefore diffuse, but from the ceiling, as in most workshops. The workshop is small so that the ceiling width is only similar to its height in the direction normal to the bench.
The result is that although the front (vertical) face of the workpiece is well lit, the top face is always much brighter. This is even more so when I’m standing in front of it. Therefore seeing a line on the front face, especially close to and parallel to the top face (e.g. when planing) is difficult.
My pupils contract to make the top face acceptably bright, which makes the front face appear darker.I’m sure that the problem has become worse with advancing age, though I’m only 65 yet.
Trying to position ground level work lights doesn’t work well in a small workshop.I have found two ways to improve things.
1. Wearing a white(ish) apron makes a surprising difference, by reflecting light on to the front face more than the top.
2. When I need to see really well I use an led panel velcroed low on the front of the apron, driven by a battery in the pocket. The panel is made up from the flexible 12v led strips which are widely and cheaply available, e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5M-300-LED-Strip-Light-SMD-3528-5050-5630-RGB-White-Flexible-Remote-Power-Supply-/112579280586?var=&hash=item1a363f7ecaI agree – attach to a larger sacrifical piece. Clamping to a sacrificial piece is difficult, but double-sided tape or cyanoacrylate glue works well. Hot glue doesn’t penetrate the grain, which can be a problem with cyano. An intermediate layer of paper can reduce the separation force if the final piece is very delicate. Geoff.
Are you sure they are thinner than the 8105? They look very similar to my 8105’s, which have proved robust enough. The edge thickness is reduced near the handle, but the thickness through the bulk if the bladelooks similar.
Geoff
- This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by gdailey2.
I think it could happen if the rear face of the iron or the front of the frog is bowed along its length, so that the rear of the cutting edge is unsupported and “nods” each time the cutting force is applied. This would temporarily increase depth of cut by a small amount. The lever cap could then act like a ratchet pawl and prevent the upper surface from springing back, so that it slides forward along the frog instead. Seems most likely to happen if the tip of the lever cap is well back on the curve of the cap iron, but not essential. These small movements would accumulate since the adjustment mechanism won’t stop them. Since we can take a 0.001″ shaving (thin) and would regard a 0.004″ shaving as thick, don’t need much movement per stroke. Try with a straight edge, or with a feeler gauge behind the iron.
regards,
Geoff
Two issues with cross-grain mortise:
1. Strength of the mortise very low if close to the edge of the piece. Yours is in the middle, so not a problem.
2. The long grain/long grain gluing area will be much smaller than on a conventional mortise/tenon joint. Normally it is on the sides of the tenon, which is also where you trim to a close fit. In your case, it will be on the ends of the tenon, where we normally allow a slacker fit because the glue here will provide little strength anyway. The glue joint strength will therefore be much lower than usual, more so if you don’t pay extra care to the end gaps. The glue joint strength can be important – think of all the chairs you’ve seen where the glued mortise/tenon has loosened.
Suggestion.
Call the board on the left in your pic A, the other B. Pencil mark from inside of A to inside of B. Measure gap between A and B and use marking gauge to transfer to the inside end grain of B. Plane off the marked region of B to give a gentle chamfer. The joint should now fit with no gap, but B has moved a bit. The two end pieces B were probably pushed too wide originally, and the dimensions will now be as intended, but if not, you may have to re-cut the rebate.
regards,
Geoff
I bought a set of eze-lap plates and small hones.
One of the plates was not in stock, but I knew that when I ordered.
The first batch was delivered promptly, well packed. The out of stock item arrived a couple of weeks later, without any need for me to prompt them.Very satisfied.
Geoff
UK
I agree re gauge lines rather than square to create third and fourth faces if original was very uneven – makes it easier to get constant thickness/width. Normally, though, for small twist, it seems easier to just plane off the high corners of the opposite faces.
Your drawing shows the maximum size available if you take out twist by planing parallel to one of the original ends. In fact, you get a bigger finished piece by planing to the average of the two ends (see drawing).
The difference in finished size is probably unimportant unless the twist is really extreme, but it also means you have only about half as much planing to do, which is always welcome.
Regards,
Geoff
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