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I built a 10′ x 12′ shed a few years ago, which houses our family bikes, garden tools, and tools/work shop. The shop space is about 2/3 of the area. I began the pivot to hand tools last summer (I was out of space for power tools, tired of making dust, and wanting to slow down and enjoy the work more), wrapping the workbench in the fall and am still building out storage and such, but the basic arrangement is finally settled.
Most tools are along one of the 10′ walls, with the window that faces toward the back yard. Power tools are tucked primarily into the right, with hand tools, clamps, jigs, etc. working around the left. The work bench straddles the miter saw, which has been demoted from a top of the bench tool to under the bench (residing on the prior work bench’s shelf).
When the shop is cleaned up between projects it seems like it has all the space in the world. In the aftermath of Christmas present building…not so much (last pic). I truncated Paul’s bench design from 66″ to 58″ to accommodate the space, but it is otherwise pretty much the same design.
It gets very tight when I have to have the table saw out (portable Bosch), but it’s plenty for hand work.
The pictures are: 1) looking into the shed, 2) to the left, 3) to the right, and 4) a view of the tool wall.
My hand tools are currently in a tote I store inside; as the shed is unconditioned, I take them in and out of the shed to work. They’ll live out there in the summer and then migrate again when it gets cold.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 2 months ago by Ghal.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Well, I figured it out, I apparently just needed to write out the situation to get my gears turning. The key bit was how the blade would tag the edge of a piece and then run over the surface of the material, not cutting. I remembered something Paul said in one of the Q&A Youtube videos (I think) about a mistake novice freehand sharpeners often make: they will put a round on the bottom of the blade, so that the round contacts the material before the cutting edge. My blade was exhibiting the same behavior. After 3 hours of re-grinding with sandpaper this morning (as measured by two and a half Fine Woodworking podcasts), I ended with a nice burr on the back, finally. I stepped back through the grits, and four strokes with the 8,000 stone put a burr on the back, in the end. It cuts like it should now. (Which meant I could spend seven hours in the shop working on Christmas presents, just in time.)
I use a honing guide, so I’m trying to think of how I messed up the blade so badly. The plane went south while I was milling up the reclaimed material I used on the workbench. Much of it is very old, hard pine from homes built ~60 years ago and it was tough on the plane. My hypothesis is, at some point it got dull and stopped cutting, and started running over the surface of that very hard, undulating pine. I think I basically rubbed a rounded edge into the bottom of the blade somehow.
Lesson learned – I needed to sharpen up much more often (I remember powering through when I knew I should sharpen, because of how often I was doing it while working that old pine).
Not my finest moment to announce myself into the forum with a decidedly rookie mistake (then again, I am a rookie), but I thought I’d explain how I fixed it in case anyone else does this.
Thanks for the tips. That’s the video I watched when I learned about the ruler trick; I only did ~20 or so strokes on the 8,000 side of the stone. There’s a razor-thin polish line on the back. I polished with the back flat to the stone a bit on the 8,000 side, just enough to confirm it was flat, so I don’t think I threw anything out. But to be clear, I only tried these after weeks of a non-functional plane.
I’ll take some pictures to post tomorrow – going to re-grind the now-massive secondary bevel back to 25 degrees and start over.
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