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2 April 2013 at 5:05 am #10388
That’s the one I’ve been looking for!! I bet it’s a booger to sharpen though.
31 March 2013 at 12:50 am #10339Josh,
Don’t know about the condition on the sole on your’s, but I bought a new one about 10 years ago and the sole was no where near flat and had some pretty deep machine marks on it. I flatten and polished the back on a flat surface using wet/dry sandpaper.The blade that came with mine was pretty thin but worked well after sharpening. I added one of Ron Hock’s blades for the #80 and it works even better. I still use the original as a backup to the Hock. The Hock stays sharper long and is less prone to chatter although the original isn’t bad if its sharp.
The 80 is a nice tool and for heavy duty work it’s easier on my arthritis than a card scraper.
29 March 2013 at 5:13 pm #10230Paul’s videos are very instructional and the blend of projects with tools and techniques is just right for me. I have a large collection of woodworking video, mostly older VHS, that I’ve collected over the last 20-25 years. Never counted (don’t want to really know because the next step would be to estimate how much I’d spent), but my guess would be 50 or so. Only in a very few cases have I felt like I wasted my money.
Other than the high quality of the instruction, Paul’s videos are somewhat rare in that the focus is upon the foundational skills a serious hobbyist. such as myself, can achieve with tools that are within reach. And, he uses these techniques in projects that are useful and aren’t so large or overly complex to be impractical for me. Lots of good videos out there on tools and techniques but not very many that use them with the context of a project. Example, many good dovetail videos but only a few that incorporate it into the buildings of a useful box.
The projects in this class are much more like the one week classes one can take around here. Some benefits of one-on-one are probably lost but I don’t have to devote an entire week away from work/family and I can pause and rewind. Plus, the on-line stuff is much less expensive.
28 March 2013 at 9:47 pm #10204I’ve thought about a set of the AI butt chisels. I have the roundback dovetail chisels and like them. I have small hands and butt chisels would probably be well suited. In fact, I have a set of butt chisels but these things are too small and I can’t get them to hold an edge at all. I think they’re made by Crown but they have the name of the woodworking store in Ohio I ordered them from. Need to sell them and get a few of the AIs.
28 March 2013 at 4:48 am #10126I have a set of older Blue Chip Marples, but I’ve heard the newer ones are quite the same in terms of quality. I don’t know about that but I use the Blue Chips most of the time. I also have a set of Asley Isles roundback dovetail chisels that I use mostly for paring. I’ve used my 3/8″ Sorby or 1/4″ Iyoroi mortise chisels for mortises, but I’m going to give the Blue Chips a go next time using Paul’s method.
As mentioned above, it seems the Narex’s sold by Highland Woodworking and Lee Valley are considered the top dogs in lower priced chisels. Narex also sells mortise chisels.
26 March 2013 at 9:46 pm #10069Great photos. Wish I could have been there. Thanks for posting.
Gary26 March 2013 at 1:50 pm #10061I have a Stanley #80 cabinet scraper. I bought it new several years ago and did flatten and polish the sole. Great tool. I use it as a finishing tool for grain that isn’t kind to my smoothing plane.
20 March 2013 at 4:17 am #9637I’d definitely take it back if out’s that much. Make sure you have the ruler locked in correctly and you’re measuring square from a known straight edge.
I gave up on using a combination square for everyday bench work a few years ago. Just couldn’t trust them. The mechanism that locks the ruler in seemed to always give me a problem. Finally, got a good Starrett but only use it unless I need a square with a ruler.
I use a set of engineer squares 2″, 4″, 6″, and 12″. I found these are accurate and stay that way unless abused. Disadvantage is that only one or two doesn’t give me the flexibility of the 12″ combination square. I almost never use the 12″ and seldom use the 2″, but the 2″ comes in handy for certain tasks.
16 March 2013 at 2:53 am #9416Most of my bench planes are bevel down except for my LN 62. One advantage of the bevel up is setup. No frog adjusting or chipbreaker issues. The adjustable mouth on the 62 makes it more versatile. It may just be the species of wood I use but I can’t tell much difference in the performance of my 62 and my Stanley #5.
9 March 2013 at 9:16 pm #9088Several years ago I got a “deal” on about 30-40 bft of rough sawn cherry. The cherry was flat sawn and highly figured. It was approximately 4 quarter stock. Got it from an individual not a mill but it had been kiln dried. I could easily tell that I’d be lucky to get 3/4″ finished boards out of most of it. Come to find out I was lucky to get 1/2″ finished boards. I ended up making a few boxes out of it but mostly just used as scrap for one thing or another. The “deal” wasn’t such a deal after all. I have my doubts that it was dried properly. Fortunately, I milled it with an power jointer and planer.
9 March 2013 at 12:40 am #9044I’ve only make a few panels but I’ve tried to get them flat before glue up knowing that my glue up isn’t going to be perfect and I’ll need to plane again.
9 March 2013 at 12:34 am #9043Interesting, never seen one of those. Not something I plan to make but I’m sure it’d be useful for a lot of things.
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