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13 October 2018 at 6:54 pm #552705
With that much damage, you don’t have much choice Brian. Those vises are really very good for the money and operate quite well. The design of the thread and the nut, when you analyze how it functions, is ingenious. The nut only has to partially engage the threads in the lead screw and the slope of the threads will pull the nut up tight against the screw. Very clever design! I took mine apart and did some cleanup on the threads at each end of the nut and it functions perfectly. You’ll be very happy when you get one that isn’t damaged.
13 October 2018 at 2:52 am #552698What you have is a WWII version. I have a #6 with those same features.most likely it’s a type 16 or 17. Go to hyperkitten.com and you can date it accurately. Nice find!
12 October 2018 at 8:06 pm #552691That actuator bar goes in a slot on the side of the red nut – actually the side of the pin that sticks down through the plate. In your first picture, it looks like the bar was still partially in that slot in the side of the nut but the entire nut had rotated counterclockwise looking at it from the front. Other than the nut being out of the bent bracket and maybe the bracket being bent back open or maybe flattened, the rest of it is correct. I’ve attached my pics again – looks like one of them didn’t make it the first time.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.12 October 2018 at 6:08 pm #552688Right Brian. The quick release actuator handle itself can’t rotate completely because of the main screw/handle. I made a point of clamping the actuator bar just for safety because you can get a finger pinched when the bar slips out of the groove in the red vise nut. My vise is mounted so it’s hard to get good pictures but I’ve attached what I could get. You can see that in the resting position, spring tension on the QR actuator bar pushes the red nut up into the lead screw threads. When the QR handle is operated, that allows the red nut to drop down and disengage from the lead screw. It doesn’t move much – maybe 3/8″.
Looking at your photo’s more closely though, the entire bent plate looks like it is it was damaged. There are two shallow slots in the casting that the tabs on the end of the plate should align with and they don’t seem to do so on yours. You can actually see the front tab on my vise and how it’s aligned. I think yours has been bent open and maybe flattened a bit which might mean that the nut won’t drop down far enough to disengage. Note the washers under the bent plate on my vise. I think they do that to allow for manufacturing tolerances and that would be one way of gaining additional clearance for the nut if you needed to.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.11 October 2018 at 6:43 pm #552660The handle shouldn’t be bent – that’s another sign of damage. If you want to try and fix it, the red gizzmo is the nut that engages the screw and the button looking part is supposed to be up in the rectangular hole in the bent plate. That’s what guides and retains the nut. The actuator bar (flat bar) has a spring on the front end so don’t take anything loose until you can get some type of clamp on that bar to prevent it from unwinding. A pair of vise grip pliers works well for that. If you clamp that bar off, take out two bolts that hold the bent plate on and move the nut back under it with the button in the hole and re-install the bolts. The flat bar just rides in a groove in the side of the nut so as long as you have that back in place it should be OK. It’s hard to tell from the photos if anything else is damaged.
Having said all of that, I would return that one if I were you. Doing the simply fix I describe above might work out fine but its a casting and there may be some other damage that isn’t obvious. Good luck with it!
- This reply was modified 5 years, 6 months ago by harry wheeler.
9 October 2018 at 8:24 pm #552608If you have a regular marking gauge, you can use that to mark one side, then reset it for the other side. You have a bunch of them to do, so mark one side first on all of the mortises, then reset and mark the other side. Just be sure to always reference the gauge off the same face. Another way is to use a combination square and your knife or an awl as if it were a marking gauge. Just set the square at the desired distance, hold it tight against the reference face, and hold the knife or awl next to the end of the scale and pull lines that way.
8 October 2018 at 6:50 pm #552594I think you’ll find that putting the bench against a wall is seriously limiting at times if you make bigger pieces but many people do it that way. My arrangement is somewhat similar to what you see in Paul’s video’s. I have a 2′ base cabinet against one wall with a tool cabinet above and about a 3′ walkway separating it from my bench which is 3’x6′ and that is centered in more or less a 20′ deep garage bay. That gives me great access to all sides and ends of the bench and I like that. I’ve got power tools in there too like a band saw as you can see, but I think you have enough room for something similar. Lighting is like clamps, you’ll never have enough. A couple of can lights won’t even be a start. I’ve got six 4′-4 tube florescent fixtures in a 20′ x 20′ area plus another 2 tube fixture over the bench, plus a local LED fixture that I can move around on the bench and that still isn’t enough at times.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.8 October 2018 at 11:43 am #552587I made a mallet out of black locust, but it came from a neighbors tree so i didn’t have to look for it. Cypress is another rot-proof wood but I doubt you’ll find that either. Aspen may be the easiest for you to source and it should fare pretty well.
7 October 2018 at 8:17 pm #552565You might try looking for red alder or aspen. Either of those I think are pretty good for wet environments. As far as a finish goes, I would suggest a marine grade spar varnish.
26 September 2018 at 1:21 pm #552326I’ve never seen a plane blade be pushed back under the cap iron, but as you say, if the screw in the cap iron that secures the blade is loose, I suppose it would be possible. Kirsty’s problem has apparently been with sharpening and as she has gone about fixing that, the problems are beginning to disappear so I don’t think the cap iron is an issue. It’s a good point to keep in mind though. The cap iron screw doesn’t need to be gorilla-tight, but it should be pretty snug. And Kirsty, if you’re listening, I noticed that you were doing what most of us do and using the lever cap for a screwdriver. It’s easier to tighten the screw if you find a screwdriver that fits. The lever cap is a casting and while it isn’t likely, people have chipped the edge of their lever cap using it that way. That being said, I still use my lever cap when my screwdriver isn’t handy or I’m too lazy to look for it.
26 September 2018 at 10:13 am #552324I try to keep my chisels pretty square Mic. I suppose one could argue that if they aren’t, that may help throw you off. I don’t know if it really would or not. Never tried. But the way Paul chops is the way you see all the master joiners do it and the way it’s depicted in all the books I have. Chopping toward or away from yourself hides the far side of the mortise hole, but whatever works for you. Keep chopping, it gets easier.
25 September 2018 at 7:34 pm #552311It really just take some practice Mic. Try stepping back and looking at your chisel from the side from time to time. I think we’re all a bit different and some might perceive that the chisel is plumb when it’s actually leaning back toward them slightly – others will feel the opposite. I think you eventually teach your body where plumb really is but it takes practice to develop that feel. I don’t like it either when the mortise doesn’t line up perfectly like I intend, but the good news is once you fill the hole up with a tenon, it really doesn’t matter that much. At that point, all of mine are “perfect” or at least that’s my story.
I should add that for through tenons, I set the mortise gauge slightly wider than the chisel to leave some room to pare the outside face that shows and often times, that is just enough to let me straighten up the walls.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 6 months ago by harry wheeler.
25 September 2018 at 2:54 pm #552286Hi again Kirsty. Mounting the paper to your tile in a different way would be a good idea and there are several ways. I’ve tried them all and you’ll find one you like. I’ve got one of those guaranteed flat stones and I have good luck just spraying the stone with fluid and plopping the paper down on the wet surface. It sticks for me but that doesn’t seem to work for everyone. Tape is OK but if you tape the paper at both ends, no mater how tight you try to pull it, it wants to gather up on the push stroke. You can tape only one end but then you have to hone in one direction. Spray adhesive is the most reliable bond and also the biggest pain in the neck when you need to replace the paper for all the obvious reasons. Get some Goo Off – that helps. It seems that there are almost as many woodworkers as there are opinions about how to sharpen stuff so try as many of these suggestions as you like and over time you’ll develop methods that suit you best.
I’ve always used a strop and they’re easy to make. Leather is readily available but you need some honing (polishing) compound to charge the strop with and it’s a little harder to find in local stores. You can find it on Amazon and usually, the cheap little sets of buffing wheels for use with an electric drill come with a small bar of the stuff. You might find one of those at the B&Q (Home Depot for me). If you noticed in Paul’s video, he put honing compound directly on a block of wood at first and that will actually do about 90% of what a leather strop will do as long as the block is flat. As far as guides go, I like my Veritas Mark II (others say it’s to complicated) but it’s definitely expensive and the one you have will work. From watching you, I think if you put some silicone shelf liner under the tile to stop it from slipping and fix the paper a better way the only other thing to do will be to eventually get some diamond stones. Keep us posted on the bench. You’ll be a mortise expert by the time you finish that project😃
25 September 2018 at 1:59 am #552164I agree with Sven-Olof Kirsty. Your sharpening looks fine and the cutting iron looked sharp enough to me when you finished. That stuff you’re seeing at the edge is a mixture of iron filings and abrasive from the paper. When it’s wet we call it swarf. You should try spraying some water or glass cleaner on the paper as you have seen Paul do. A lubricant like that helps and that is about the only thing I would change. I’ve had experience with Eze-Lap and DMT stones and both of those have worked well. I’m using DMT’s now and when you’re ready, you definitely want the 3″x8″ size which takes care of any plane or chisel blade.
Those chisels need some work but all of them do when they’re new. The backs definitely need flattening and polishing. If you don’t get the backs flat, there’s not much point in honing the bevels.Other types of honing guides like the Veritas Mk II have a wide roller and those make it harder to put uneven pressure on the chisel or plane blade. The ones like yours aren’t quite as forgiving because of the narrow wheel and you’ll discover that the more narrow the chisel, the harder it is to keep the pressure even. You might try placing your tile on a piece of shelf liner to stop it from slipping around. If you can use two hands on the honing guide, as you found out, it’s much easier to control it.
Your selection of a 16mm chisel is fine. When it comes time to cut the tenons, you’ll use that chisel to set your mortise gauge and everything will work out. Chopping mortises takes some practice. The first few are going to be a struggle as you learn how hard you can hit the chisel, which way it should be facing and when, how much pressure you can apply when levering, what that “dit” sound Paul always talks about really sounds and feels like, etc, etc. There’s a lot of technique going on and it just takes a bit of practice but you’ll get there. You’re doing great – we all went through the same things when we started so don’t get discouraged.😃
- This reply was modified 5 years, 6 months ago by harry wheeler.
24 September 2018 at 9:03 pm #552149They’re called concealed drawer slides Rowly, and I know Rockler has some. I’m sure you can find them from other suppliers as well.
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