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10 April 2019 at 2:38 pm #555919
Well done! Restoring old tools is an awesome way of getting quality tools, with the added benefit of you knowing the tool inside out when you’re done.
Now go build something beautiful with them!
19 March 2019 at 11:28 am #555576Hello Jacky,
I got my leather from an upholsterer. Just asked if he had some scraps lying around. Turns out that upholsterers that do big couches and armchairs have decent sized scraps. The finish and the color on the outside don’t really matter, because that side will be glued anyway. If it is really slick, you can rough it up with some coarse sandpaper for the glue to have something to hold on to.
The leather on my strop is around 2mm thick (5/64″ for you imperial folks), so I’d say anything between 1/8″ and 1/16″ is probably fine. You’ll want it to compress a little under the blade, but not too much.
The leather is glued to an 18mm (just under 3/4″) plywood backing using a contact adhesive.Another place to get leather would be a place that repairs shoes and other leather items, but their scraps might be too small. I’d try the furniture people first.
Henry
27 February 2019 at 8:44 pm #555427Lowering the handle did the trick.
I changed nothing else and the saw now cuts beautifully.27 February 2019 at 1:07 pm #555426I found one of Paul’s older blog entries where he mentions the saw halting in the cut.
This is the blog I am talking about: https://paulsellers.com/2011/09/hand-saw-handles-revisited/
Tonight I will try to lower the handle to see if that makes any difference. I will report back my findings.24 January 2019 at 8:49 pm #554691Is it resharpenable or does it have impulse hardened teeth? (Often recognisable by their color difference to the rest of the plate) Impulse hardened teeth are not resharpenable because they are too hard for a file to cut. You would have to grind all the teeth off and cut new teeth. Not something I would recommend if you’re just starting out.
Is it a ripsaw or a crosscut saw?
For a rip saw, sharpening is pretty easy. Paul has a video about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UA5DixEaaUoCrosscut is a bit different, but still very doable: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UA5DixEaaUo
Using a file guide is really a short term solution. It makes you rely on the guide instead of the skill you are building. You can certainly use them as ‘training wheels’, but eventually freehand will be faster.
Exact rake and fleam (had to look those words up, although I sharpen my own saws) depend on what you want to do with the saw. Paul explains this in his saw sharpening video’s. For a ripsaw you would file perpendicular to the plate. For a crosscut, or fleam cut, you would file at a certain fleam angle, as explained in Paul’s crosscut sharpening video.
I hope this helps a little. Good luck sharpening!
23 January 2019 at 7:51 pm #554670Thanks everyone for the advise.
I looked specifically at the tips of the teeth to check for dull teeth. There were a few.
Sharpened again, this time checking every tooth for flat spots. There still were a few small spots at the front of the saw, no big deal, that’s just for starting the cut anyway.
Saw cut a lot better. Still halting sometimes, but I suspect that has to do with technique more than anything else. Should improve with practice.11 January 2019 at 5:19 pm #554453I just checked the saw against a straight edge. There is one high tooth, but it is about two inches from the back. So that is probably not the problem.
28 December 2018 at 10:27 am #554127I’m by no means an expert on wood movement, but I think it will probably not cause a problem.
When using a bigger panel you leave some space in the groove for the panel to expand. A panel that is one third the size will expand less. If you leave it the same space as the bigger panel it will have more than enough room to expand. I’m not sure about contraction, but other people might know more about that.28 December 2018 at 10:21 am #554125A latch on the piece holding the saw handle will work as well. There is enough room between the two screws to put in a third screw that holds a latch. Make it big enough to pivot over the handle, but small enough that it fits just inside the edges of the block.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by Henry van den Top.
28 December 2018 at 10:11 am #554123Well done, looks great!
- This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by Henry van den Top.
12 December 2018 at 10:13 am #553824Paul has written a blog on lumberjocks about reshaping the handling instead of completely replacing it. Worth a read, as it is a viable option for newer saws with ugly handles. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/48683
11 December 2018 at 9:30 am #553819I would probably just draw a straight line connecting the two semicircles (if that makes sense). Then saw to that line to make the kerf for the blade.
TGIAG Toolworks has handle templates to reference from(https://tgiag.com/saw-handle-scans.html)
This template for a Disston D7 panel saw shows a dotted line to cut to: https://tgiag.com/disston%20d7%20panel%20saw.pdf . The dotted line shows the end of the blade.People that know more about saws than me may have a better solution, but this is probably the most straightforward.
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