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24 November 2017 at 11:34 pm #381220
Reporting back from actually trying juggling my triangles around earlier-
Used an off cut of MDF, using the machined edge as my straight edge.it just happened that the Starret combination square I bought online arrived this week so I was equally confident I had bought a good tool that should pass the test, and apprehensive that I would find I had bought a dud!
But, all good. photo (not great quality) attached of the result. I guess if I did zoom in 100x, having used a tiny tiny tiny pencil point, I would maybe find a slight divergence, but for me the result is more than accurate enough for woodworking needs.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.24 November 2017 at 11:26 pm #3812053-4-5 sounds cool. Never heard of the trick before (a reflection on me, not the trick!).
19 November 2017 at 2:55 pm #374670using a marking knife would increase accuracy and avoid smudging also, depending on what surface it is you are checking the mitre with.
some straight scrap plywood big enough that you don’t mind marking, for example.19 November 2017 at 1:06 pm #374590although funnily enough if i zoom in sufficiently on that supposed accurate cad drawing, I have a slight slight divergence as well!
attached shows a 0.2 mm divergence. Interesting.I’ll have to try this out again with the real thing tomorrow when I am back in the shop.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.19 November 2017 at 12:56 pm #374580Hi –
one possible way, that just requires a board or sheet or whatever with 1 straight edge:
Mark any point along the edge, and draw a line square from the edge (after you’ve checked the square is square!) Measure out two equidistant points along the edge, and use the mitre to draw a 45deg line from both points towards centre. If the two lines meet at the square line then you’re good. If they diverge, you’re off!
I may be explaining that terribly, but I quickly sketched it out in cad- attached a pic of what I mean. Obviously this requires accurate measuring out of the distance from the centre point.
Another option would be if you have a board that you know 100% to have two parallel edges would be to do on 45 deg line from one side, and see if you can match the angle with the mitre from the other edge. But I think it is easier to be 100% confident on having a straight edge and measuring accurately than having a perfectly parallel surface.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.14 November 2017 at 8:41 pm #366526Hi- a new post on this 4 years later.
I just tried out the steel wool finshing with wax- I’ve got the Liberion 0000 steel wool, it comes in quite economical 1kg packages- you can find it on Amazon easily enough.
BUT. I am having the same problem as outlined above with the black marks/goo. It was bad enough that I switched to cotton rags to continue the wax finishing. (I do admit I could have prepared my surface a little better).
but as soon as I put the steel wool into my furniture wax I get that black goo coming out of the wool, which then caught immediately on every pore in the oak I was working. Wax is not at all too warm (non-insulated workshop in belgium!), and I am wondering if in fact the wax being basically solid is causing the problem- am I maybe working the steel wool too much to get wax onto it, and thus destroying its structure in the process?
Anyone else had this problem with hard wax? Liberion promise that their steel wool is virtually oil free…Thanks!
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