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I’ve learned that skewing it at an Angle helps. You’re extending the sole of the spokeshave so that it has more registration. It won’t follow the imperfections in the wood as easily. It seems to glide across the surface better. This seems to be even more important on the initial stokes that you take.
I can’t recall which species of wood I was working when I realized it. I would imagine that this would happen with all species of wood under the right circumstances. In addition to the knife wall I also never make a chop with the chisel hanging off the edge of the dado. I always stay away from the edge about 1/32″ when I chop and then lightly pare down with the chisel to finish off the end. This seems to work well for me because the end of the dado has nothing to support it.
The knife wall always helps me. Paul often says “the knife wall separates the wanted from the unwanted.” I have realized that all my tools do this but boy the knife wall does it much cleaner.
The method of tapping the rivet works. But I would like to offer A word of caution.
I have used the technique previously mentioned of tightening the rivet in the past. Never had any problems. One day I took it to far and the cast iron frog broke off at the lateral adjustment and thus ruined my frog. I purchased a replacement frog on eBay for $9 but I learned a valuable lesson.
I think this is a logical way to fix the problem if you set it up properly but supporting the frog and only allowing the blunt force of the hammer to impact the rivet is essential.
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But I have had the same problem In the past. But I noticed that it only happens when I am making long strokes from one end of the board to the other starting from the back. It is also generally happening on short boards. After studying Paul’s movements as well as his instructions when I start from the front of the board and work my way back and lift the rear tote of the plane up BEFORE i start the backstroke I don’t have that problem. I feel like that it’s because you aren’t trying to plane to a certain place in the board and when you consciously lift the rear of the plane on forward stroke the plane ejects the shaving before you start the backstroke.
Not really a quote but I thought it was funny in the Christmas stars episode around 9:50 when he mispoke spruce and mahogany by saying sprice and Mahogany. I don’t know why but I got a kick out of that. He kinda laughed at his self.
Otherwise. I agree with Matt. I like “perfect”
I remember Paul showing the technique that had been mentioned several times on the winding sticks video. I remember him sawing down the stock a little way then rotating it around to cut a little further. It seems he was wanting to ensure accuracy.
I am always amazed with the confidence that Paul exhibits when sawing. So seeing him do that was interesting. I feel sure he has the skill to just go to town on a cut like that but I am assuming that even the best keep an eye on their cuts from time to time. Particularly on something that requires accuracy.
I wanted to offer an opinion that may be on here somewhere but I’m not able to find it.
First of all building the workbench was the greatest thing I have done. I love it and it is extremely useful. I consider mine as valuable as any tool I own.
That being said… I do woodworking in a outside storage building. When I built it (before I ever considered woodworking) I wanted an area to work on things. So I simply made a counter top that spans the width of the building and made it 24in deep. It was nothing but 2 x 4 studs off the wall with a 2×6 spanning the width. I put a piece of 3/4 in plywood as a top. After building the building most of this top became cluttered with junk so when I decided to start woodworking I cleared off about 4 ft of workspace. Basically I had a 2ft by 4 ft workspace. I made a homemade moxen vice, used clamps and even resorted to attaching pieces of scrap wood to the counter top to act as a stop to plane against.
I know this sounds primitive and it was. It’s nothing like working on my workbench but it allowed me to toy around and develope skills i needed and within 3 months I built entire workbench under those circumstances.
The only reason I say this is because you could accomplish this makeshift workbench for probably less than 50 us dollars. And it would give you a great start in your journey.
Just wanted to offer this perspective because you shouldn’t feel like you absolutely have to have a workbench to accomplish anything. You can develope the skills necessary to build the bench with any number of setups. This is what worked for me.
Thanks raze. I was pleasantly suprised at how fast I was able to plane them down to a level surface. The rounded corners on the American 2x4s make for a lot more work but not to bad. Like I said I was shocked.
As I said in my original post I made a lot of mistakes and learned a lot from them.
One of the biggest mistakes I made was on the first bench top I laminated. I didn’t think to pay attention to grain direction. The bench top futhermost from the vise has 1 board that has opposing grain. Even though it was a mistake I couldn’t believe that I accidentally got 7 of the 8 boards going the same direction! Wow did i get lucky on that one. I noticed it before I laminated the second top. So for the next top I took a few shavings off the edge of each 2×4 to make sure that I read the grain properly.
After this I thought wow I’ll never make that mistake again. Well I was wrong. I didn’t make that same mistake on any of my lamination’s but when I went to glue the aprons to the tops you’ll never believe what I did?!? I glued my best bench top to the apron and everything was square and no gaps anywhere and I was pleased. After I clamped everything up and was getting ready to go in for the night I realized my next mistake…. I had glued my top on to where the planing direction was from left to right for a left handed person….haha you’ve got to be kidding me I thought. So needless to say the next day I climbed inside my workbench frame and planed from inside there. I’m hoping that when I need to resurface my top I will be a little more ambidextrous:)
I had the exact same experience.
All of my first mortise holes were angled. It was very frustrating particularly on a through mortise.
It’s really funny because I found out that standing behind it works better for me almost the same way you did.
I had used a clamp to hold the workpiece in place and the clamp was in my way. Rather than move the clamp I repositioned my body and it was like a light went off. I thought wow this is a good perspective. I have chopped most of my mortise holes that way every since. I feel sure after chopping 1000’s of mortise holes we will probably be able to chop them standing on our heads.
Not sure when that would be beneficial though. 🙂
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