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@stevewales veggie lol, the emulsified oil from animal brains will also soften your dry cracked and chapped craftsman hands better than anything! Dont know about dog poo wtf
Your theory is correct, that’s why a lot of timber frames go up green, wood contracts on it’s self, little extra tightness in the joint…yes, you can make the softer wood pegs stronger with more bulk, but compression is also a factor, im not sure if it’s significant enough that it would comprise the integrity of the pin…but you never know. also white oak just seems to be hands down the most popular pin material for anything structural requiring a drawbore tenon. Have fun with your project 🙂
Funny thing to me is those boards are produced from the Stimson mill literally 3 blocks from my house. They only produce 2×4’s and only for Home Depot. I guess inland northwest hospitality is fuzzy boards shipped throughout the region.
Hem/Fir is a mix of wood in a single unit of boards. Not a species. So a unit is comprised of hemlock and fir. Hemlock(what we call White Fir here) essentially is garbage for anything other than studs(stud grade is nearing the bottom of the desirability scale). I can literally put 1/4 thumb nail marks in seasoned hemlock heartwood. Weak.
If you absolutely want something better…I would return what you have, and maybe spend twenty cents to a dollar more per board on wood that is labelled “#2 & btr SPF KD” (grade 2 or better spruce,pine,fir-kiln dried). IMO Doug Fir is best out of the conifers, they fetch the highest price most of the time.
Personally I have a hard time listening to lumber jockeys at big stores, drones.
@petervalcanas, I agree! A get together between all us wood nerds with Paul and Crew would be superb. I certainly have about a billion reasons to want to personally shake Paul’s hand and give him thanks, we all do really. I have to emphasize thanks to the crew, i can barely fathom the work load in creating one episode, let alone a project series. All this done by what, a four person staff? These aren’t crap videos from fingerless jerry in his uncles greasy shop, these are REAL productions. Eternally grateful for establishing, and maintaining the Quality of instruction that comes from MasterClasses.
It doesn’t stop with just the videos either. What about the creation of, management, and moderation of the blog and this very website? These things dont come out thin air! Good people are putting in good hard work here, it truly shows.
I’m sure you have tried, but based on your photo alone..it really looks to me like your against the grain. A portion of material to the lower right of the dark knot looks fine, the rest looks against the grain. Is this how the material looked when you got it? or was it smooth, the roughened up after planing? Maybe I’m just totally missing something.
I agree with Matt about the pine needing a slightly greater offset, too much though will fracture the tenon. As far as pegs go, grab some oak, the pin is under the most pressure, whole joint considered, so it MUST be stronger than the material it’s mating. TightbondIII is great, of course a little exterior liquid nail goes a very long way and is my go to choice. Mortise and tenon would be good, but don’t discount bridal joints.
Best,
Johnsounds like youre dealing with leather that has been chrome tanned, do you know anyone who brain tans? I do my own hides, and make strops with the “garbage” flesh side out and it seems to hold the compound great. I’d also stay away from smoked leather as the smoking process impregnates the fibers with resins and oils which i would assume reject buffing compounds.
In my area almost every arborist has a log yard, other than dropping the tree yourself it’s probably the best bet. If they’re the type that routinely shop out their “waste” to low volume hardwood mills prepare yourself for some sticker shock, they know very well what a board foot of this or that species can sell for.
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