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1 March 2019 at 5:10 am #555436
Hey, thanks Larry for that link. I looked all over for a good image, figures it would be posted weeks after I looked. That’s an excellent shot to show the form. It’s an amazingly effective method, a lot more power and I think better tooth presentation.
I agree the slot style Disston’s likely work better.
1 March 2019 at 1:12 am #555429The D-8’s are for using a western saw in the normal 2-hand grip such that the teeth are toward you. In normal sawing you’re pushing the saw down and through the wood but pulling toward you between strokes so you so you have to keep backing up. What I’m describing is rotating the saw and reversing your dominant right hand so it’s in the over hand portion and the left is in the normal position. Then the teeth are facing away from you and you’re pushing the saw through the wood both for each stroke and as you advance.
Aha, I should have known somewhere Chris had a video on it. Same grip though I think standing is easier than the sitting method.
So apparently it is a thing. Surprised it doesn’t get much coverage, it’s much easier in my opinion for long rips.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 1 month ago by James Robnett.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 1 month ago by James Robnett.
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14 February 2019 at 5:45 pm #555103Made a quick low quality video.
It’s hard to actually see since I’m in the way. Once I turn around and hold the saw more traditionally it’s a bit more obvious maybe. The end of board nearest the camera is supported by the vice so there’s no risk of it dropping and splitting the wood,. Replay seems to show a lot of motion in the board but it was actually relatively stable at the cut point. With the reverse grip each full down stroke was advancing about 1/2″ so the cutting was quick.
I find this stance and grip very ergonomic, much better than the normal forward facing two-handed grip and much faster than any one handed grip. There is a tendency to get a slightly out of square cut but since the board is cupped I’m a generous 1/4″ over final width so any out of square is not an issue. I suspect I will do all long rips this way from now on.
Possibly I’ve essentially rediscovered the wheel that every body knows about but I don’t really recall ever seeing anyone using this grip for a standard western rip saw.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 2 months ago by James Robnett.
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21 September 2017 at 3:23 am #318391Yeah if I had $500 to burn on something associated with Paul it would be a down payment on plane tickets and tuition so I could talk to him in person. I ran across a blog entry from him from a while back, I never quite realized how close we were (distance wise) 30 years ago (’87). If I’d known he was going to be famous back then I’d have driven over to Waco and said ‘hey’.
21 September 2017 at 3:19 am #318388Very nice, I particularly like the butterfly to fix the crack (or at least that’s what it appeared to be in the picture).
Some folks might toss that board but it’s fine like that and adds a ton of character in my opinion.
Coincidentally as I drove home this evening I was picturing how I wanted to deal with some true 1″ x 12″ to 1″ x 15″ 100 year old ponderosa pine 10′ to 15′ planks I have. I need to resaw sections of them to 3/8″ or so for cabinet door panels and the prospect of doing it with a rip saw had me pondering wimping out and taking them to a sawyer.
Now that I see your posts it helps to realize it’s not work, it’s just part of the process.
16 September 2017 at 4:36 am #315956@Ed, correct, I struggled without how to phrase that without getting confusing so just settled for saying ‘if you flip it and it’s straight’.
But yes it really needs to be checked in both orientations, flipped and not flipped to be 100% certain since one orientation is guaranteed to be straight due to the complementary angles as you say.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 7 months ago by James Robnett.
16 September 2017 at 3:10 am #315950If your registration square shows 3 corners on and the 4th off then the registration square is likely off. If 3 corners are 90 degrees and your edges are straight then the 4th corner must be 90 degrees. If you planed a taper into the 4th corner then it could be any angle but a straight edge should show whether all 4 edges are straight.
For instance if your square is really 89.5 degrees then 3 corners could ‘look’ square but the 4th will be 91.5, a full 2 degrees off your registration square (91.5 – 89.5).
I’d check your square for accuracy, if your shooting board was made using that square then it’s likely off in the same way. It can be checked by shooting two boards, putting them end to end with one flipped. If they describe a straight line the shooting board is square, if they describe a V then it’s off by 1/2 that error.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 7 months ago by James Robnett.
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15 September 2017 at 10:20 pm #315944Take the following with a grain of salt, I’ve only tweaked one or two saws.
There’s a nice article here: http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/content/diagnosing-common-issues-hand-saws on restoring saws. One general good rule of thumb is ‘resist the urge to whack it with a hammer’. For kinks you might have to resort to that but it’s dicey and he has a good example of how bad that can be if you use the wrong type of hammer. I’ve never dealt with a king but I believe the warnings that you’re apt to do more harm than good.
Luckily yours is just a bend, and for that kind of bend his method (similar to what Paul does in his backsaw video) is to reverse the bend in a vise. Clamp just above the bend, bend in reverse, advance, repeat to just past the bend. Gently and slowly to sneak up on it.
15 September 2017 at 3:08 pm #315936And to add to Ed’s comment, might check this blog entry https://paulsellers.com/2014/10/questions-answered-router-bevels-reversed/
as to why that’s an issue.
Edit: huh, just noticed the original question of that blog, same Ed ?
- This reply was modified 6 years, 7 months ago by James Robnett.
14 September 2017 at 9:56 pm #315921Afraid I don’t have any assistance to offer on the look of pine but I plan to make one soon as well. I’m restoring a 100 year old adobe house and pulled about 150 board feed of true 1″ x 12″ to 1″ x 15″ Ponderosa Pine deck boards out of the ceiling that the dirt roof was originally on.
That pine works very nicely, it’s pretty hard (difficult to mar the face with a fingernail). So far I’ve only made a simple bar top for my daughters kitchen but I’ll be making things for around the house and my shop (like the mentioned cabinet) out of it.
Reclaimed lumber from real lumberyards is pretty expensive IMO but you can sometimes find it on craigslist from folks doing demo of old structures or barns. Then it’s basically a nominal fee plus you haul it. So maybe check local craigslist for wood. Old growth Ponderosa and Douglas Fir is nice stuff.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 7 months ago by James Robnett.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 7 months ago by James Robnett.
13 September 2017 at 7:52 pm #315903The thing I like most about Paul’s instruction is you get the sense he’s an incredibly patient teacher. So one small slip from a video sticks in my mind, I forget which video or what he was doing but he says something to the effect that if such and such happens “you’ve already failed”. He then immediately gets a pained look on his face and says “I shouldn’t have said that”.
Even when making a video for a hypothetical audience he’s thinking about how to encourage and not discourage the student. That is a rare attribute in a teacher.
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