Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
@Sven-Olof Jansson: Thanks very much for the advice! I like the look of that Temporary Floorstanding cabinet. I’m definitely going to look into that book.
I am a real big fan of traditional joinery (like all of us are I’m sure!). But even so, there are several times when I need to build something more “utilatarian.” Also, sometimes being able to make something in relatively short time is key. In that respect, what do you think about the Temporary Floorstanding Cabinet you shared, but with butt joints and screws instead of M/T joints? Would it be much harder to get the carcass square and parallel?
Thanks!
– JuanI found a screw that works that is also fairly easy to get in the U.S..
Danco 35150B No. 10-28 x 3/8 in. L Slotted Round Brass Bibb Screw
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/screws-and-anchors/machine-screws/4072187I tried it on my Wards Master 45 plane which is missing the fence screw as well. It fits like a charm. I paid 69 cents at my local ACE Hardware store. So if you don’t feel like paying $20 for a thumb screw, this is it.
A few things:
– this is a chrome plated brass screw, so don’t reef on it. With care I think it will last quite a while.
– this screw is used on faucet handles, so check your faucet! lol
– this is THE only local place I found this size screw, and I checked all over.
– on my Wards 45 it fits with a couple threads to spare.
– I have a very old and a relatively new Stanley 78 plane, and that fence screw did NOT fit on my Wards 45.Hope this helps.
[quote quote=317865]Tried for months to buy one of those Paul Sellers Stanley knives.
They were sold-out everywhere (the Paul Sellers Effect).
When I tried later, Amazon could only ship the handle – ‘cos knives are sharp. Paying with a Credit Card didn’t change their stance.
So I use a regular old Stanley Knife – the type you’d use to lay carpets etc.[/quote]
got mine here (assumes you’re in the U.S.):
This has been my experience too, with my set of LV Narex chisels. I’ve owned them for several years, and have worn them well past the edge. I’ve kind of gotten used to it, but when chopping mortises, they just don’t hold up. This was especially clear when chopping north american white oak and also claro walnut, both pretty hard. At 30 degrees the edge rolls over and chips after say 3 to 5 blows, sometimes even just one! 35+ degrees helps but not very convincingly. Still happens, just not to the same extent of edge damage. I’m convinced Narex are on the soft side, maybe even too soft. If I had the scratch I’d probably try German chisels (Kirsch, 2cherries, etc.) or Ashley Iles. I suspect the German chisels are good hard steel, but a fully polished bench chisel can have a rounded over back thanks to the polishing process.
This is the mortise gauge I’m going to make for myself one of these days. I especially like how you can wrap your whole hand around the 2 beams to hold your pin setting while you adjust the beam length. This is a little bit hard to do on the cheap-o Harbor Freight combo gauge I currently use. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Geoff,
The UK knife is available in the US through the seller BigRedToolBox on eBay or amazon (as linked to below). I like that seller a lot. Reliable and fast. The cheapest way to get the US knife is to order on the Home Depot website for in-store local pickup. You save shipping that way.
One more option you might consider is making one entirely from scratch, from these guys. These guys are the only place I know of that sells you a genuine folded brass or steel back. They also sell pre-punched saw plates, and also split nuts. Their prices seem to be reasonable to me at a glance, but that’s up to each person’s wallet I guess.
One thing that I’m realizing is that I prefer a relatively heavy back on my tenon saw. That’s the only reason that I don’t prefer my Veritas saw over my steel back disston. The veritas is noticeably lighter.
Given the scarcity of brass back saws in the U.S. (where I’m from), I’d definitely restore it.
I’d use Liquid Wrench penetrating oil all over and in the spine and let it sit overnight. All penetrating oils are not created equal. Some are essentially useless for severe cases (like WD40). I used to be able to get an industrial penetrating spray called 12-34, that stuff worked like magic. Liquid Wrench is the only readily available stuff I’ve tried that works.
I’d try my best to save the plate with aggressive abrasives (like 80 grit), but if there’s not enough good steel left then I would replace the plate.
The handle looks nice. I’d clean it up, maybe sand it a little, and glue the cracks by thinning down some PVA with water and oozing down in there. I’ve also used small wood cleats on the end grain just ahead of the screws to stabilize cracks which reach that far. Yea you can see it, but it doesn’t look near as hideous as putting a cleat on the side I think.
I currently don’t have a high end square. I too use cheaper ones that I’ve checked for square using the edge method as best I could. But if I were to buy a new high quality 12-inch combo square, I doubt it would be Starrett. I’d get a blemished PEC square from here:
http://store.harryepstein.com/cp/ProductsEngineering/7131-4R.html
-
AuthorPosts